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94 Areostar Rear ABS warning light

My problems started when the rear wheel Cyl leaked and allowed the fluid level to drop and allowed air into the system.

Rear Cyls, and new shoes now have been replaced and all four wheels have been bled, and the fluid level is full.

I'm looking for a solution for two problems. First problem is the Red brake failure light will not go out after all the wheels have been bled, and the second is the REAR ABS warning light stays on.

I can make the Red Brake warning light go out by disconnecting the Proportioning value switch from the wiring harness. The Question is how is that switch reset back to be off in the normal operating mode, or is it normal to be in the off mode when the no pressure is applied from the brake pedal.

I don't have a clue as to why the READ ABS warning light is ON after the engine is running. The sensor on the rear pinion is in place and hooked up, and it was functional before the leak is the braking system. I'm thinking that it may be in the ABS sol value that is after the Proportional value.

Anyone have a clue, and have model experience?

Reply to
Jerry Muller via CarKB.com
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Proportional

Reply to
tom

open a front caliper and bleed it = out the pressure check that both brakelights work

hurc ast

Reply to
hurricane 575

Problem solved, Replaced the RABS sol value, and the prop value, very expensive, but it worked. blead the brake in order of right rear, left front, right front, left rear as discribed in repair manuel. thanks

Reply to
Jerry Muller via CarKB.com

Reply to
Eno Zamora

I replaced the value that has the warning switch on it. It's call a "Pressure Differential Value and Warning lamp switch". Then I replaced the RABS value or know as a "Dual Solenoid Eletro-Hydraulic Value". This was a shotgun fix, since the wife wanted the car fixed ASAP, and there was dirt, rust, and leaks in the rear system when I started. Now I have flushed the system with new fuild, and have new parts, I feel that she is now driving a car with safe brakes. One last thing, to make sure that there was no air in the system, I bled the brakes a second time to make sure that the fuild ran clear and no air bubbles. This system that's on this van dosn't have a pump built into the ABS controls. the only pressure that is applied is from the brake pedal. I tested the new part before installing it, and I could apply small amount air pressure to the inlet port, and feel that there was a sign that it was reaching the output port with out being energized. With this thought, I felt that just bleading the brake will remove the air from the value.

Reply to
Jerry Muller via CarKB.com

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