94 T-Bird Tranny Up-Dates?

Thereare numerous updates for this trans that any good tech will know about or can learn about easily. A good shift kit properly setup can greatly enhance durability and reliability but, at the cost of a firmer shift that many people will not accept. Most kits can be setup anywhere from no shift feel to "it hurts". I usually set them up one step firmer than stock for non-performance vehicles. You hardly notice the difference after a few miles. One place you do not want to scrimp is the converter. It is the most problematic as it can shudder after some miles especially if the trans is not serviced as recommended. The addition of Lube Gard or a similar product to the fluid is money well spent. You should also make sure the converter solenoid is replaced with the updated one to reduce the probability of shudder. While it is out is a good time to replace the MLPS (nuetral switch) as the original had a propensity to go bad after a while causing erratic shifting and strange nuetrals while driving.

Thank you lugnut ,I`ll make sure my tranny guy gets a copy of your answer. Thanks agian

Tom

Just an addendum to lugnut's notes. The MLPS is indeed a potential problem, lacks a seal to protect the electrical integrity of the unit, as I understand it.

The '94 MLPS has 8 male connectors. Our Ford mechanic told me they use the '95 MLPS as a replacement unit. It has 12 connectors, so they have to replace the female connector from the wiring harness (more $). I replaced mine ('94 LX V8, 4R70W Tranny) with a

100% compatable Wells unit ($25 at Auto Zone), which is working well.

Might wanna ask your tranny mechanic about any MLPS replacement. For my $, the Ford-recommended repacement is too expensive.

Cheers, Puddin'

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My '95 AODE is coming up on the 30K service interval for fluid and filter.

Re: the converter solenoid, do I need to buy this part from a Ford dealer to get the "updated design" or can I just buy it at Autozone? Is the solenoid accessible with the transmission in the car?

Rodney

I do not know if AZ would have the updated version or not. I usually buy tranny parts from a trans parts supply house. Anyone with cash can buy them. Last couple I replaced cost abotu $14USD. It allows a quicker lockup of the converter giving it less time to setup a shudder just like engaging a manual clutch quicker reduces chatter. With the pan and filter off, it is a 2 min swap. Make damn sure you get the correct solenoid for your vehicle year as there was a change around 1996 or 97 that could render your ECM dead.

I don't have a tranny parts supply house in my area. Any particular brands or part numbers that you know for certain give the improved behavior? I would hate to replace my nice Ford part with a cheap aftermarket one that doesn't fix the problem.

Rodney

Sonnax is the one I usually get because that is what all the suppliers around Atlanta, GA have.

Check here for correct P/N for your vehicle

There is also an updated circuit board to correct this problem for about $100. I have not used the board. The solenoid along with other updates seems to have done the trick so far. Keep in mind that your trans may not need an overhaul requiring it to be completely torn down. The solenoid and a complete service usually fix the proble at relatively mileages if you get it taken care of ASAP when the problem first appears. IOW, don't drive it more than necessary until you get it serviced. As far as the service goes, you can get the fluid either flushed or drained. On you trans, I prefer to remove the fluid by removing the pan, replacing the filter and draining the converter. You converter has a drain plug which any half assed technician should be able to find and remove. IMHO, this results in more of the old fluid being removed than typical flushing unless you accidentally find someone who makes sure enough fluid has been passed to ensure maximum replacement of the old fluid.

If you want a bit of a tech view of many of the updates involved in a rebuild, look here:

Lugnut

There must be SOME place in Wood County that sells transmission parts ! Are the people working on transmissions ordering in everything ? Keep your eyes open, somebody near you is sure to offer some suggestions.

Bill

Thanks for the info. I always change the fluid myself by dropping the pan, changing the filter, and draining the converter. That might leave a little fluid in the trans cooler, but I follow the service interval and I don't "drive it like I stole it" so I hope my tranny will live a long time. Time will tell.

Having this transmission completely rebuilt will not be cheap.

From what I have read over the years , considering the design issues such as a torque convertor that implodes over 5,000 RPM and questionable internals you might be better off with a crate tranny from Ford. The tranny used in the 1997 T-Birds is a much better design.

It is also said that if you trash your transmission and it needs a rebuild it is strongly suggested that you replace your radiator. It is claimed that you can never get all the filings out of the tranny cooler and even flushing it out will leave enough crud in there to potentially damage a rebuilt / new transmission.

I've picked this info up over the years from

and Steve

just wondering.

Tom

Hello Puddin' Man

I had the MLPS replace on my 94-Tbird and after 2 years I have the same problem again. I have been told that the MLPS is also called the neutral safety switch. Is this true? And how hard is it to replace the MLPS yourself.

Thanks

-- snip --

In common parlance, yes.

Unless you gotta lift, I'd rate it "pretty difficult". The MLPS itself is just 2 bolts, but ya gotta line it up just so, and ya gotta potentially re-calibrate the shifter to make it work like show-room. If our local Ford tranny man wasn't a Nice, Nice Guy, I couldn't have done it (he loaned me a home-made alignment tool and supplied all kinds of info).

Good Luck, Puddin'

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It is no trouble to line up correctly. The replacements have timing marks so that it is a simple visual alignment. There is no need to adjust the selector linkage unless it was either out of adjustment to start or, you screwed around with it. The big problem is getting under there to get at it. If you can safely support the vehicle to get under it, the only other thing you need is an 8mm wrench. A universal fitzall wrench will remove the lever if you do not have a proper tool of the correct size.

Lugnut

Aha! That explains why the local Ford tranny man went to the trouble to hand-fashion a home-made tool for alignment. This guy has made his living working on Ford trannies for decades ...

It *could* be that easy, if one is used to climbing under the beast and wrenching this and that. But there are numerous things that are easy to screw up. And to the extent that the MLPS was designed to be replaced, it was designed to be worked on whilst on a lift.

Puddin'

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