Hi All -- I have a 1997 Ford Taurus sedan (USA) with 55,000 miles, and
my headlights won't turn off. The only way to kill the lights is by
disconnecting the battery. I brought it to my mechanic and he played
with the fuses and wiring for quite some time, but couldn't solve the
problem. Has anyone else in the forum had this issue, and how is it
fixed? The mechanic said something about a daytime running lamp
module, but the problem is he doesn't know where it's located.
Any help would be appreciated. I'd like to avoid bringing it to a Ford
dealership if at all possible.
Does it have the auto on/off headlamps or do you have to turn them on
and off manually? If it is the auto type I have heard of the sensor
that tells how dark it is outside going bad. If not maybe it could be
the headlamp switch needs replacing.
If the car is, indeed, a US car, it shouldn't have DRLs.... If you can bring
yourself to hire a real mechanic (one who fixes vehicles rather than "plays"
with them), he would know to check for a DRL module near the left headlamp.
He would also check his manuals (there is no way to effectively work on an
electrical system without wiring diagrams) to see that there might also be a
concern with the multifunction switch (flash to pass feature) or with the
main light switch.
Unless it was a fleet vehicle, in which case DRLs are fairly common ...
(The OP didn't mention whether or not he had DRLs before this problem
Since only one or two percent of US Taurii have DRLs, I'd hazard a guess
that there are more than a few "real mechanics" who've never seen one.
I'd also guess that hoopking posted here hoping for some useful information
and not just to be ragged on for trying to economize on service for a second
"Stuck on" is among the failure modes for the DRL module. The fuse for the
DRL is a 15A (blue) blade type in position 15 in the engine compartment fuse
box. The cheap fix may be to simply remove that fuse. To get to the DRL
module itself, you have to remove the splash panel under the front bumper.
(about a zillion small screws) The module will be located under the battery
area. It's a small box with an 8-pin connector on the bottom. If it's been
on, it'll be hot to the touch. I believe a replacement is fairly expensive.
($100+) If you want to disconnect the module and do away with your DRLs,
you'll need a jumper from pin 1 to pin 8 to make the high beam indicator
work. You might be able to find an original jumper plug at a salvage yard.
Probably, but keep in mind that you still have an electronic device with
some unknown fault in it on a parallel circuit with your headlights so you
should stay alert for any signs of side effects. Your high beam indicator
circuit passes through the DRL module, also.
Have you fond the problem with your headlights? I am experincing the
same problem with my 97, also the Multi fuction switch is backwards...
ie forward low netural Highs, and back flash.
I had issues with my daytime running lights a few years back and pulled
the fuse But now Im in the same boat.
I tried pulling the 30AMP i the engine compartment fuse box but
Don't feel lost though I'm a aircraft mechanic apprentace and its got
me in a think.
Let me know what comes of it and I'll do the same. And if anyone has
options let me know.
The DRL module or Daytime running lights module is placed just in front of
the Drivers side wheel well. I had this burn out on me and I had to replace
it for $70. Not the worst case. But if you cant, theres a mini fuse under
the hood fuse box that you can pull and the daytime headlights on function
will be disabled. I dont remmeber which fuse, but pull one at a time, with
Ignition off and battery conected, til the headlights distinguish.
My car was a 98 Taurus
Larry in NY
The DRL module competes with the MACH radio display power supply board and
the old TFI module for top honors of unreliable electronics. Different
vendors, but I can't avoid noticing the common thread: notoriously poor
thermal management. This is a beginner's mistake as far as power electronic
design goes. Not to mention leaving design verification as an exercise for
the customers. Seems that Ford can't afford any better.
By the way, another annoying mode of DRL failure is a brake warning
indicator that stays on. I was almost certain that the switch on the parking
brake control shorted out, before finding the real reason... Wife's Grand
Marquis now utilizes a piece of black tape over the ambient light sensor for
makeshift DRL. A 0.1 cent substitute for the $70 module. Bonus: tail lights
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