98 Sable - Disc Rotor Quality

I have an annoying problem with my front discs warping too easily. I've tried to avoid all the water I can, and yet a few months after I've replaced the front brakes and discs, the damned things are already warping
again. The lugnuts are torqued, too, so it's not that.
Are the discs I buy at places like O'Reilly and Advance Auto not as good as factory rotors? Would I be better off getting the rotors at the Ford dealer?
I'm just flat out sick of going through rotors like Tootsie Rolls.
Thanks, Damaeus
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Last brake job I did on my '94 bull I went with the more expensive rotors and a carbon/metallic pad from A zone. 40k on that job now and the pads are getting thin but no warpage. GF drove the car for most of the brake job and she warped the prev. brake job that I didn't do. Did the same on my '88 bull, and never any warpage probs. on that car either. The cheap rotors are just that, cheaper grade steel and made in China. Higher priced ones = better grade steel usually made in the US or Canada. Most places like A Zone, Advance, etc. have a selection of rotors at different prices, ya gets what you pay for. She's driving a Malibu now and they are notorious for eating front brakes. Quality rotors and ceramic pads are on it and wearing great. My bull is getting ceramic pads shortly as I like the low dusting of them and great wear. Pricey but worth it IMO, and with them quality rotors are a must.
--
John
"anything you say can & will be misquoted & used against you"
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"Are the discs I buy at places like O'Reilly and Advance Auto not as good as factory rotors?"
If they say "Made in China" on them then they are crap rotors that you shouldn't buy. The good cheap ones usually come from Canada.
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I'd take a look at the pads. The friction surface on some aftermarket pads is more grabby than Ford OEM pads, which can throw off the f/r brake balance and lead to the front brakes generating more heat. Result = short lived rotor. It isn't necessary to go to the dealer for OEM brake parts. You can find them online. Rockauto.com is one example.
Otherwise, check for problems in your brakes. Bad caliper, collapsed brake line, etc. Planning stops doesn't hurt either.
Rodney
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Warped brake rotors are pretty much a myth. See: http://www.stoptech.com/whitepapers/warped_rotors_myth.htm
Rodney wrote:

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If you've ever actually ran a brake lathe you would know that this is bull shit. I'm not saying every case of brake shudder is caused by warped rotors but is damn sure not a myth. Bob
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Well I've never heard that before. But I did forget to mention that following proper break-in procedure is a good bet after doing a brake job. Your owner's manual describes the break-in procedure.
Rodney
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In posted on 17 Jan 2005 11:23:41 -0600:

I bought mine used with no owner's manual. What does it say? Drive 120 miles per hour, brake hard and drive through an icy water puddle?
Damaeus
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Rodney wrote:

That's a general driving procedure, more for safety than brake longevity, and has zero to do with breaking in the brakes so they seat properly. I've always broken in new brakes by a method similar to the article, and I have NEVER experienced warped rotors. Oh yeah, I'm also a LFB and brake pads last me 50,000 to 60,000 miles before I start hearing the wear sensors.
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In posted on 18 Jan 2005 12:03:01 -0600:

Well, then I must really have some crappy rotors because I did that for several thousand miles and they still have problems.
Damaeus
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