a little off for some groups: 1989 Mazda 626 clacking from top of engine

Page 2 of 3  
Hachiroku ハチロク wrote:


If a lifter begins to make noise, two possibilities are lack of oil pressure (unlikely) or excessive wear of the component itself (likely)
Plan on replacing 'em all.
JT
(Who owns nothing with hydraulic lifters!)
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Fri, 06 Apr 2007 00:55:06 +0000, Grumpy AuContraire wrote:

It's not really a 'lifter', as I think I understand the term.
The car has an OHC, 3 valves per cylinder. They are actuated by rockers, and at the end of each rocker is an HLA (Hydraulic Lash Adjuster). I guess it's supposed to eliminate the need to adjust the valves by expanding or 'deflating' with oil to take up the slack. It seems they collect gunk, as do the holes providing the oil.
It seems the MMO added to the oil has taken care of this for now. They look fairly easy to replace. Once it comes off the road for the summer.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

other end of the rocker arm. Lifters deflate in pretty much the same way, but I don't know if it is usually that they stick "down" or if they leak too badly to work.
Your plan to tackle it when more convenient sounds good to me. At least a collapsed HLA (almost wrote "lifter") won't strand you anywhere.
Mike
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Thu, 05 Apr 2007 19:30:40 -0700, Michael Pardee wrote:

Well, once it fianally STOPS snowing I'll pull of the valve cover and have a look. I have a Supra I use in the summer, the Mazda's a winter beater. When the Supra goes on the road I plan on giving the Mazda a better going over than I did in December when I bought it. But the forecast is for more snow this week.
And the funny thing is, I drove it about 20 miles yesterday, no problem. This afternoon it fired up just fine, I drove it about 7 miles and the ticking came back. I stopped for a cup of coffee, and the next three times I started it, it ran fine.
So, I guess the cover comes off in the (real) spring...
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
wrote:

doesn't all come out at once, and it's crap that's causing the problem. You can safely use a bit more the second time - but no more than 1/2 bottle per 4 quarts (about 12-15%) on a dirty engine. Change oil again in no more than 2000 (prefer 1000) miles. THEN pull the cover and have a look. On the Supra it's a good idea too, to keep the chain tensioners working.
--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com


Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Fri, 06 Apr 2007 00:55:06 GMT, Grumpy AuContraire

in the lifter making the plunger stick in the collapsed position or causing the check to stick open. The very VAST majority of lifter problems, if caught early, can be PERMANENTLY solved by "medication", using products like MMO, Rislone, BG Tune-up, or even ATF or kerosene (not recommended). They can be prevented by proper oil change intervals, regardless what the large number of nay-sayers on this list may say.
--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com


Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Michael Pardee wrote:

I never heard anything negative about MMO in the forty-five years that I've been "tinkering" with cars. Makes a hell of an "oil can" squirter lubricant too..
JT
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
snipped-for-privacy@ExtraGrumpyville.com says...

Manufacturer Name     THE MARVEL OIL COMPANY, INC Street     5655 W 73RD STREET City     CHICAGO State     IL Country     US Zip Code     60638 Emergency Phone     708-563-3766 Information Phone     708-563-3766
Ingredient #     01 Ingredient Name     BENZENE, 1,2-DICHLORO- CAS Number     95501 Percent     0 Ingredient #     02 Ingredient Name     MINERAL SPIRITS CAS Number     8052413 Percent     0 Ingredient #     03 Ingredient Name     NAPTHENIC HYDROCARBONS CAS Number     64742525 Percent     0
I got the above info from here:
http://www.setonresourcecenter.com/msds/docs/wcd00043/wcd04377.htm
--
I. Care
Address fake until the SPAM goes away ;-}
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Thu, 05 Apr 2007 19:49:16 -0700, I.Care wrote:

Interesting...BENZENE?!?!?!
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
wrote:

"detergent" type solvent and parts cleaner.
Then again, the Benzene family is very extensive too, like Parafin and Naphtha.
--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com


Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

none of which are by default bad for the engine. Basically most of the non-aromatic hydrocarbons fall into this definition.(other than the Parafins)
According to Schlumberger: A type of organic compound of carbon and hydrogen that contains one or more saturated cyclic (ring) structures, or contains such structures as a major portion of the molecule. The general formula is CnH2n. Naphthenic compounds are sometimes called naphthenes, cycloparaffins or hydrogenated benzenes. Naphtha is a refined petroleum fraction that contains a high percentage of these types of hydrocarbons.
--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com


Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
I. Care wrote:

good on you! i have a really strong opinion on anything related to oil sales and the total lack of labeling thereof. it's all to deceive the consumer. manufacturers all know what their competition is using - they have labs. consumers don't, and this information vacuum is the void into which garbage is sold. msds info like you've dug up /is/ available, but it's not exactly front and center, and even then, there's get-outs for "proprietary" contents. the whole machine is a scam.
i say: 1. label all products, just like food and shampoo.
and while we're at it: 2. make publication of the calorie content of gasoline mandatory. alcohol content is mandatory on beverages, calorie content is published for natural gas. same principles should apply to gasoline.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Tue, 03 Apr 2007 19:35:34 -0700, jim beam

Except when you have the ticky valve problem. The stuff works - generally. What's the oil change history on this 626? Extended drain intervals in thepast????
--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com


Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Tue, 03 Apr 2007 02:27:53 +0000, Hachiroku ハチロク wrote:

Interesting:
There is a Horrible ticking from under may valve cover. What is it? How can i fix it?
This is your Hydraulic Lash Adjusters (HLAs) starving of oil. HLAs are essentially maintenance free and as soon as they start to tick they are supposed to be replaced. Unfortunately Mazda/Ford wants an arm and a leg for them. There is a way to squeeze some life out of them.
1. Pour some ATX oil into your engine. DO NOT USE A LOT, 300ML WILL BE SUFFICIENT. Auto transmission oil/fluid is VERY high in detergents so it will remove most of the gunk from the HLAs and anything else that oil has contact with. Drive on this oil mixture for a day or two, no more. 2. During an oil change, get yourself some engine flush(readily available at any Auto parts retailer) follow instruction on the can/bottle 3. Put new oil in.
If this procedure did not fix your HLA tick (not to be confused with injector tick which is normal) you ether will need to clean HLAs physically or replace them.
This procedure is not recommended for engines which have some oil consumption, as this will clean out all the gunk in piston rings as well, and you might end up using more oil and smoke badly too
____________________________________________________________________
I was approaching an oil change anyway. I wonder if adding more MMO might have a similar effect...
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Tue, 03 Apr 2007 02:27:53 +0000, Hachiroku ハチロク wrote:

Thanks to everyone who responded! Ray O wins the prize: It looks like a collapsed Hydraulic Lash Adjuster. These look pretty easy to remove and replace, but I have found a number of resources on the web as to how to clean them.
Also, I will try the 'lazy man's' way suggested by another poster, ie adding ATF or Marvel Oil before the next oil change. It was due in 500 more miles anyway, so I'll try 'flushing' it and see what happens. One method suggests simply sliding the rockers and pulling the HLAs out and cleaning them, another prescribes removing the rocker cams and arms and a thorough cleaning. Since the car is so clean, I will probably do this after I park it for the summer!
Pray for me...(I can be a Gumby at times!)
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

LOL... Welcome to the club...
--
" ya gotta let it out, Captain! " ( Jaime Brockett )


Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Wed, 04 Apr 2007 17:46:52 +0000, Remove This wrote:
Oh, My God!!!!

So the Captain, he let it all out at once....
Prone right down on the wheelhouse floor...oh, this brings us up to what's happenin' again, folks!
The Titanic, she's sailing around in and out between the icebergs; The _______ people are having parties and trading wives, Cadillacs and diamonds; The sail people are hoistin' up landlubbers and battenin' down hatches; The First Mate's hangin' over the rail havin' himself a little smoke and diggin' the icebergs;
AND THE CAPTAIN'S OUT COLD ON THE WHEELHOUSE FLOOR!!!!!!!!!
(that last line was my yearbook quote...!)
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

kerosene and re-install.
--

Ray O
(correct punctuation to reply)
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

to replace some I replaced them all. Replacing them isn't without risk, since the cam lobes were fitted to the originals and now they're pushing a whole new set, but the buzz was that if one or more were collapsed the others were in similar shape. I got rid of the car for other reasons a few months later.
I was advised any attempted repair is temporary. Maybe that would have been good enough for a few months :-(
Mike
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Michael Pardee wrote:

Replacing a set of lifters without a new camshaft is considered an improper repair, *if* you're going by the book, but with today's synthetic oils you can probably get away with it. I would use a full synthetic oil and change the oil/filter at 1000-miles after the repair. The next oil/filter change would be at 3000-miles, at which time I would return to the normal oil change interval.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Related Threads

    Motorsforum.com is a website by car enthusiasts for car enthusiasts. It is not affiliated with any of the car or spare part manufacturers or car dealers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.