It all depends on what you want to do. I've found that auto radios often
home systems, especially for reception.
Some years ago I modded a mid-late 80s Delco ETR radio (Those could be easily
by plugging in various boards, etc)with better tuner section and high output
etc. Due to my choices there was no room for a tape player in the radio.(yea,
been a while). I then built it into an enclosure with 4 premium speakers, a
supply and a telescoping antenna. The cabinet was covered with black fake
was the radio in my bay at the dealership and soon became the "shop" sound
would fill the entire service department with sound. When I left, everybody took
collection and offered me $300 for it. I took the money with the intention of
another one, but I never got a "round tuit". It may have cost me $75 total to
it, likely less. It was great for parties and other get togethers because it was
portable, about 30 lbs. Being an automotive radio, it was pretty durable too.
Fabricating the cabinet was the hardest part.
This sounds similar to what you have in mind, so yes it can be done. Newer
premium systems have a head unit, remote radio, external amps, etc. in many
applications. If you have all of the parts and cabling, it should be very doable
you have basic electrical knowledge.
If you're not able to modify the cabling for those systems, I would suggest a
alone OEM radio(Think 94 Taurus w/o Premium sound) or aftermarket unit. OEM Ford
alone units (no external amps, modules, etc.) with CD are quite rare or non
AFAIK. I don't recall ever seeing one. A CD player would be a must if I were to
On a side note, Philco did this very thing during WW-II. They weren't allowed
produce radios, but were allowed to adapt existing car radios for home use in
over cabinets. One sold on Ebay a few days ago: http://tinyurl.com/3ddd6q
Fugly radio, but the idea was pretty cool.
A much better way to buy such things is from real electronic part suppliers,
like Digikey, Mouser, Newark, Allied, etc. It can be a challenging
experience for those not versed in electronic terminology, because the
catalogs are likely to have many thousands of items under the 'DC power
supply' category. But if he is serious about that project, he will enlist
someone like that anyway.
supplies. These supplies need a load on the outputs to function
properly. Not loading the high current 5 volt supply can cause problems.
Not to mention if its a ATX supply, you would have to hot wire it to
even start up.
I used to go to Zuma Beach on the weekends, it think it was back in the
pleistocine era, and there was a guy that would bring a good car radio, 4
speakers, and a car battery out and set it up right on the beach. He'd play
the thing all day long. The battery was a marine, deep-cycle. The set-up
That thing was a chick-magnet. Some of us should have paid him. :-)
I meant to include:
Does the op want to use the radio away from any easily attained power
source? If so, a battery set-up would do just fine. If he just takes it out
of the car, and stays by the car, he can use an inverter, say at a picnic or
someplace like that.
If he has access to a power source, then yes, a ps makes the most sense. If
he's running an amp then he'd have to use a much more powerful PS, much like
the 75 amper I have in my garage. ;-)
On Fri, 22 Jun 2007 11:31:38 -0700, "Jeff Mayner" wrote:
You don't want to run a radio for long periods from a battery
through a 12VDC to 120VAC inverter, then convert back down to run the
radio - the conversion losses in the inverter and the radio's internal
power supply section combined will chew up the batteries way too fast.
You want to go straight from the Battery DC to the radio circuits
(usually also DC) with as few power conversions as possible.
If you try to run a high-powered stereo amp on a power supply, even
a 75 Amp rated supply may not be enough - I've seen Competition sound
systems that draw over 1000A on the peaks, with a separate battery and
multi-Farad stiffening capacitor system for each amplifier. And a
stereo that has power supply issues sounds really sick when the sound
starts clipping and dying on the peaks...
If you were going to make a Boom Box out of a car radio, I would go
for the simple and effective with an Optima Spiracell AGM Deep Cycle
battery (yellow top) and a small battery float-charger rated for a
modest output of 3 to 5 amps or so.
When plugged into an external power outlet the float charger will
supply the average modest radio power needs - when the bass starts
really kicking there will be peak loads on the battery into the power
amp that can exceed 25 or 50 amps for a few milliseconds at a time,
depending on the size of the amp.
But as long as the /average/ power draw is not too much over the
capacity of the battery float charger you can go all day. Let the
battery fully charge overnight.
--<< Bruce >>--
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