Check Engine light

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http://www.books4cars.com/result2.asp?findyear 88&imageField2.x'&imageField2.y=9
Thanks and maybe if this goes into round 2
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Oops , used the wrong account, don't want anybody to think I am masquerading as another poster. thats me above
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wrote:

No Chiltons and Haynes were my last try and just about all they had at the library ( I sent the friend whose truck I am fixing). I may try a subscription service if things get hairy next week but the friend is poor and we don't want to spend much if anything. Registration is payed. just need to pass smog to get a sticker, they give you a bit of time to clear that up.
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Have you considered the possibility that the bulb is burnt out?
My vehicles turn the bulb on with the Ignition ON. The light goes out on my Jeep and my Mazda (a '94 and a '93, respectively) turn the light on with Ignition ON, then the light goes out after a few seconds. My '94 BMW turns the light on and keeps it on until Ignition START.
If your Check Light never comes on, the first check is the bulb. You had trouble previously though, so you may want to look at the melted wires again to be sure they were all fixed.
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Duh, re read, I plan to check that first
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On Tue, 13 May 2008 13:00:20 -0700, pipedown rearranged some electrons to say:

www.autozone.com Select "repair info" You can get a basic wiring diagram there.
According to that, 1988 Ford Ranger, 4 cyl, check engine light is a pink wire going to pin 20 of the engine control module. The high side of the bulb is protected by a 10 amp fuse (fuse #10), check that fuse to make sure it is OK.
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for the source diagram (do you have an exact link?) you quoted the pink wire but that info should be useful in and of itself. Thanks
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On Tue, 13 May 2008 13:00:20 -0700, pipedown rearranged some electrons to say:

This whole thread is now going into the 'ignore' bucket. The OP is being too silly. If he was really interested in fixing it, he/she would have. This silliness about pretending the light is not there, or wiring it to the oil presssure switch, and using a wiring diagram for a different vehicle is just too much.
Bye-Bye!
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Sounds like you stopped reading several days ago. I rejected the oil pressure suggestion outright right away. I posted a conclusion where the light is now working (lit when it should light, there is now a new problem but thats another thread that won't go here). If anyone here thinks I was here for anything more than entertainment then you are the silly ones. I certainly would have got as far as I did without ever coming here. Maybe you should hit the "headers" button a few times and get the rest of the thread before you pop off prematurely
My purpose other than entratainment was to ask someone who I don't have access to at home (without paying much money) if some of my assumptions were correct. Some replies did help or reinforce what I already believed. Your link to Autozone was a bit helpful but since the only diagram showing a MIL lamp was the first and it was the least like the actual vehicle of all and all the other diagrams showed no such lamp, what would you conclude?
The owner can't afford more than 2 gallons of gas at a time let alone a mechanic and I am too smart to just shell out money for a vehicle that is not my own. I am willing to fix it, I don't get into the engine ever but as an EE the wiring is not a problem even in a case like this where I had to merge data from several sources to determine that it was appropriate to connect two different colored wires. How long would it take you to come to that conclusion. It would have been nice to have the exact year wire diagrams but I could not locate it and the autozone diagrams were uncaptioned as to the year and engine they represented. In my experience, certain Ford vehicles share attributes for many years in a row, the wire colors and harness between the ranger and explorer is one of those cases. If this were my vehicle, there would be none of these issues. My Explorer is as close to mint as a 15 Y.O. SUV can be.
I find it ridiculous that this poster and another got frustrated to the point of flaming off just because they were either reading more into the post then there was or because I didn't act as they thought I should. Many hours have past, other things have happened, I didn't write them all down here for your approval. If you think this process is silly then you miss the point of the entertainment value all this, you take this too seriously perhaps. If anyone thinks that any poster must get an answer here or they are SOL then that's unrealistic. If you are here for another reason what could that be, to get your ego stroked when someone raves about your eloquently worded and ultimately correct and insightfil advice???? Or is it to feel superior when you conclude that a poster is too silly to participate in your club??? And if you think I wasn't entertained writing this reply then you are still missing the point :)
And finally why would one "Bye Bye" a poster who sticks with the topic and posts the results when you have so many who post incomplete questions and never post back ever you could be doing that to.
Whatever,
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There are no other lamps that act close enough to the MIL/CEL. I'm considering wiring a 555 timer to open a relay contact connected in series with the new wire I installed. The timer will be triggered by the Key-Start signal and run for 45 seconds before closing the relay and restoring normal operation.
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"pipedown" wrote:
I solved the problem by connecting the MIL wire to the CEL. Now after starting the engine, the CEL flashes steadily then turns off after 30 seconds. _________________________________________________
THE MIL IS THE CEL. There are not two separate indicators.
You have wired your (MIL/CEL) to your seat belt reminder.
Rodan.
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You also said you could not find the light on the schematic, but it is clearly shown ...

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Followup: It passed inspection

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He says it passed the smog check ...
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