cooling system

"jetfan5" wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@localhost.talkaboutautos.com:

If you have to ask that.. you better be telling us WHY you think it's bad!

And BTW.. it depends on the Engine.. usually on the front of it, but ya never know, do ya!

I hope you're not in IT support.. if you are you're the guy who gripes about the client coming to you wanting you to install the fix.. but not telling you why or what the symptoms are.

I took the radiator cap off and the water does not appear to be recirculating also where the bottom radiator hose goes to the engine their is a leak but its not from the hose.the engine is a 2.3 4cyl. the engine is overheating.

And by the way I don't work for IT support what ever that is.This is my first time on here and simply looking for some help,not some smart reply.I have never replaced a water pump before and just needed some advise.THANKS!

"jetfan5" wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@localhost.talkaboutautos.com:

Now that wasnt so hard, was it! If you had just included that in your first post, there wouldnt have been a smart-ass answer.

That bottom radiator hose attaches directly to the water pump assy. Note the continuous metal casting up to and behind the top large center pulley with the four bolts in the center. Assuming you have electric fan.

A bad water pump seal is indicated where the coolant drip down onto the crankshaft area from behind that pulley.. and what you indicate is close enough.

Dont worry about not seein gthe water recirculate... When the engine is OFF, the coolant in the rad should be within 3 inches or so of the cap... if not it will overheat.

In a good, non-leaking system, the coolant should be right at the cap.. that's the purpose of the coolant reservoir.. it expnds coolant and air into bottle, then as engine cools it pulls coolant back into rad.

If you replace the pump yourself be sure to have proper tools.. and that includes a good knife-type scraper to remove old gasket and sealer.