Die electric grease usage?

What is the convention on using die electric grease on spark plug wires? I have seen it in the plug boot ends. But what about on the coil wire between the distributor cap and coil?
My taurus has been building up corrosion on the coil side of the wire to distributor wire. I am trying to determine if die electric grease is suitable here and if that may help the problem. The car has been kind of bucking and it seems like a ignition problem. Its got relatively fresh plugs and wires, and shows no visible arcing in the dark at night. But there was white corrosion on the coil when the would wire connects to the distributor
Bob
-
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Bob Urz wrote:

shouldnt be building corossion in the first place. Thats indication of poor connection. The grease does not assist in the connection (well unless its too difficult or something).
That being said, the grease will not do anything negative if you put it on both ends of the wires.
--
Thank you,


CL Gilbert
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Corrosion is oxidation, the grease serves to keep oxygen out of the contact area,
As said above, it doesnt conduct... but in this case, high voltage, that's a good thing.
Clean contacts thoroughly first.
--
Yeh, I'm a Krusty old Geezer, putting up with my 'smartass' is the price
you pay..DEAL with it!
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Backyard Mechanic wrote:

The voltage doesn't arc through the dielectric grease. The connectors wipe away the grease at the contact points. The object of the grease is to cover the parts that aren't making contact.
--
If John McCain gets the 2008 Republican Presidential nomination,
my vote for President will be a write-in for Jiang Zemin.
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

There are dielectric compounds made for this purpose, and they help keep the caps from siezing on the distributor towers and the spark plugs. They do not soften or damage the insulation elastomers used on ignition cables.
You often receive a small packet of this type of grease when you buy new ignition cables.
By helping exclude oxygen from the surface of the metal, they can also help stop or slow the oxidation process.
Note that the word is not 'die electric', but rather dielectric. It means that the grease is NOT conductive to electricity.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
snipped-for-privacy@nospam.nix wrote:

Thanks for correcting that spelling. The grease is so good that I have used it over wires where the spark was arcing so bad the vehicle would not start and got instant results.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Hah... someone else sees the light!
Periodic treatment of your wires and boots with silicone grease.. a very thin film, no need to glob it on..will prolong their life indefinitely, oxidation -and outgassing- kills insulation as well.
--
Yeh, I'm a Krusty old Geezer, putting up with my 'smartass' is the price
you pay..DEAL with it!
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Bob Urz wrote:

Dielectric grease should be used on all of the boots on all of the wires. It has been my experience that, most times, corrosion on the wire connections indicates high resistance in the wire. This is usually caused by burning of the center conductor just past the connection, often seen on lower price wire sets. I'll bet if you pulled the boot off of the coil end of that wire, you would see the center conductor burned out about 1/2" down the wire from the terminal. I got burned by this on my own car once. 1986 Taurus 3.0L. I bought it with 6 month old wires ACCEL wires(receipt in glovebox).The engine ran smooth but wouldn't get out of it's own way. I went round and round with it while assuming the "newer" wires were good. A friend stopped by and pulled the wires off of the cap, pulled off the boots, and showed me the problem. The bad wires happened to be on 1 cylinder of each mated pair, I think #s 1-3-5. The dist. cap towers on the 3 bad cylinders were corroded. Inspection showed that the center conductors were burned on those 3 wires. Since then, looking for corrosion on the cap and coil terminals has proven to be a good indicator of failing plug wires. I see this a lot on aftermarket wires,much more so than OEM or replacement Motorcraft wires.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Tom Adkins wrote:

I had the same experience with ACCEL wires. They all corroded out and crapped out within a year. Their 'performance' distributor cap didn't last 2 months.
I stick with OEM from the $tealer. They work the best from my experience.
Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id !15147590 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Mike Romain wrote:

I generally use Motorcraft or NAPA Gold wires. Anything less is asking for trouble.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Tom Adkins wrote:

I swapped out the cap and put on a new coil wire today. Have not had a chance to test drive it yet ot see if it helps or solved the problem. If it did, would it be worth going back and putting D-grease on the coil wire?
Bob
-
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Bob Urz wrote:

Yes, for sure. I would recommend you clean those corroded connections too. A new coil wire is only half the contact, the corroded socket in the coil will still cause trouble.
Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id !15147590 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Bob Urz wrote:

Yes. You should also consider gettind a new set of Motorcraft wires. The other wires are likely to fail in the same manner soon.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

other wires

There are plenty of good wiresets out there. Motorcraft is fine, if it is not exorbitantly priced.
There is nothing special about Ford parts, obviously.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
snipped-for-privacy@nospam.nix wrote:

The last set of Motorcrafts i got (on another taurus) i was not that impressed with. They were generic length like the aftermarkets and did not seem to be made much better. That does not make them bad, but not what i thought i was getting. The same OEM look and feel of the original. That they were NOT.
Bob
-
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
snipped-for-privacy@nospam.nix wrote:

Not as many as you might think. Ford products tend to burn up most house brands within a year or 2. GMs are even less tolerant. Motorcraft, AC Delco, and NAPA Gold are about the only good ones in my experience. I wouldn't hit a dog in the ass with most others. A good set of wires for, say a V-6 Taurus, is about $60-$70. Any less than that and you will be replacing them in about 2 years or less. If you put Motorcraft wires on a used Ford product, you'll likely never have to worry about them for the life of the car. Do it right, do it once.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
I use it on all the plug wire boots on all the ends and cover the low tension connections and plug and socket skirts with it too. I can run my Jeep across 42" of standing water with no issues....
The corrosion in the center coil terminal implies a bad connection. Either the coil wire's center core isn't tight to the wire clip or the clip is loose in the coil hole. That clip is supposed to actually scratch the edge of the coil's hole when it goes in.
The other connection needs cleaning too and if it is the press fit Ford coil plug, the contact inside might be now bent or out of alignment. If bent, it is likely dead or corrosion killed, but you might be able to make it spring back.
Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id !15147590 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
Bob Urz wrote:

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
...definitely a repellent but I wouldnt go as far as calling it more than a mild sealant or to hold under any extreme 'underwater' pressure conditions. It doesnt harden to any degree.

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Use it, no problems at all. Had the same problem in my '88 and '94 bulls as far as corrosion on the coil wire. Clean and tighten the connection. I never had a miss problem in either car though.
--
John
"some suffer from insanity, I choose to enjoy it"
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Related Threads

    Motorsforum.com is a website by car enthusiasts for car enthusiasts. It is not affiliated with any of the car or spare part manufacturers or car dealers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.