OK... you have pressure at the fuel rail..... are the injectors being
pulsed? With the key on, the injectors are supplied with 12 volts to one
terminal.... the PCM grounds the other terminal to "fire" the injector.
Very surprised someone hasn't suggested checking the ignition module. Every
time mine went bad, the car would crank, almost catch, then die. If I held
the key to start, and stepped on the gas, the engine would rev. You will
get spark when cranking. And that's it, no mo'
Did this occur suddenly? was it running one day then not the next? I'd
rule out the ignition module first. They do go bad, and are known to be in
a bad spot, taking lots of heat. I'm on my 3rd or 4th in my '86 5.0.
Everytime it cranks but won't start, that's the first thing I check,
especially if it's a sudden onset. Doesn't matter if it ran 5 minutes ago.
They die when they feel like it.
My rule is not to replace what you *think* it is, but rule out everything
else until you only have one thing left and *know* what it is....
I have not seen anyone rule out the ignition module yet. I keep a spare one
handy, because I know I'll need it eventually.
I'll put up a 6-pack of my home brew that's the problem.
I think you already ruled that out
by using the starting fluid to get
The injectors seem more likely and
they all have signal and ground
common to them all. I say check
ground first. It's free and quick.
Then go for the signal.
I'm still putting up a 6 pack of my home brew..... Currently brewing a
Belgian-style dubbel, about 8% alc. Come & get it if I'm wrong.
Starting fluid worked because whether the TFI module's bad or not, you'll
get spark when cranking. I know because once when mine went I could get the
engine to rev higher while cranking if I stepped on the gas pedal
Everything says the fuel system is working. Got pressure, whirring pump..
All 8 injectors will not go bad overnite. A TFI module will.
Get a cheap TFI module, even a used one from a parts yard. If it works,
that's your culprit. Now go out and buy a good one and keep the other for a
spare. If you keep the car long enough you'll need it. Even if you get one
from Pep Boys, AutoZone, etc, it should still only run about $60-70. Alot
cheaper than investigating and servicing a fuel system that is in all
likelihood still working.
IMO, the TFI module is the weakest link in the 5.0. Like the fuel pump
relay in my Volvo 245, it's a known issue, you have to expect it to go bad.
I keep a spare and it gets used.
There was even a class-action lawsuit about the TFI modules, the location on
the distributor exposes it to excessive heat from the engine, causing
premature failure. There were relocation kits available at one time, not
sure if they're still around.
Remove a plug, reconnect it to the boot & ground it to the block. Have someone
over the engine while you look foe a fat blue spark. Doing this in the shade or
light makes spotting the spark much easier. Don't handle the plug while the test
or you may get the shock of your life.
Motorsforum.com is a website by car enthusiasts for car enthusiasts. It is not affiliated with any of the car or spare part manufacturers or car dealers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.