dont do a ankhe105 and brake job

You may need torx fittings to remove the calipers. They are little star

>shaped fittings used with a ratchet wrench and come in various sizes. >Unless the calipers are leaking, you don't need to replace them and if so, >DON'T take the brake lines off during the job. If you're saving the >calipers, you will need about an 8 or 10" C clamp. Put one of the old >pads on the caliper where the piston is and crank the c clamp down until >the piston is all the way back flush with the caliper body. Take the snip

ok enough of the back yard hack shit

LOOSEN BLEEDER SCREW it keeps it free and lubed it allows for easier compression of piston it allows ya to top up brake fluid to add new fluid gets rid of gunk and water and rust in brake lines that clog abs system reduces brake fade etc etc etvc

get some certification ya FOCTARD

Reply to
gcarmingiha
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No, I'm not lumping all technicians in with Bozo. Sorry, it just made me angry. I apologize to you Bob and all the others who do great work AND have a decent "bedside manner". (Or shall I say Manners). I appreciate the support Frank. Thanks I'm not certified and anything I have learned over the years, I did on my own, and with the help of good folks like Frank. If Bozo had wanted to set me straight about the best way to do the job, I would have taken it well and appreciated the advice but he chose to be....well, a bozo.

Reply to
ankhe105

How do you know that there isn't "gunk" above the ABS "valves" that will cause a problem once you float it closer to the ABS "valves" using your method?

Funny... in the 20 odd years that ABS has been more or less standard equipment, having done thousands of brake jobs, I have yet to see this supposed problem occur.

Reply to
aarcuda69062

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