EGR Valve Question

Have a 1997 Ford TB 4.6. Bought this car new, has only 36,000 miles on it. Question is: This is the 4th time I've had to replace the EGR valve. Anyone have any ideas why this is happening?
Thanks in advance for any input or comments.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
What's the code? Could be a few things.... take a look at http://www.obd-codes.com
Have a 1997 Ford TB 4.6. Bought this car new, has only 36,000 miles on it. Question is: This is the 4th time I've had to replace the EGR valve. Anyone have any ideas why this is happening?
Thanks in advance for any input or comments.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Swanny Thanks for the info. Car read a P0402 trouble code. Ford replaced the EGR valve. Display monitor DPFE read 2.3 volts hot idle/Koer exesive EGR flow/ pin point replace EGR valve clear codes retest OK now Pass drive, Postest DPFE read .99 volts hot idle. (Taken from Ford readout).
In the past the DPFE sensor has been replaced, and the EGR replaced twice. Fuel injector service has been performed, so no carbon buildup to blame.
Will see how it performs this time. Again, thanks.

it.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Brian Arnett opined in news.ops.worldnet.att.net:

Assuming carbon gumming of valve...try changing your brand of gas, and driving habits.
Higher rpm's, longer drive after warmup.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

EGR
flow/
Postest
twice.
Funny you should mention brand of gas, have always been "brand loyal" using Shell gasoline, recently used BP Amoco. Will rule brand(s) of gas out. Although this is a low mileage vehicle, most of miles are interstate miles, so will rule out second suggestion. Maybe should start challenging local tuner cars at red lights?? Thanks for advice, but still at a loss.... Glad Ford has 12/12 guarantee......
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

the
blame.
using
miles,
In my experiance it is the DPFE that fails almost ALWAYS on that year. The older ones would build up carbon and block the passage. Does your car warm up proberly I wonder? It shouldnt take more than a few minutes to reach normal temp....
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Scott M wrote:

Humor me please.... What is the DPFE?
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
"F.H." wrote:

Differential Pressure Feedback EGR sensor. It is a solid-state sensor that measures the pressure difference between two ports on the pipe that exhaust gas flows through when the EGR valve is opened. In the middle of the pipe, between the two pressure sampling ports, there is an orifice that generates a small amount of pressure drop. The flow of exhaust gas in this pipe is proportional to the pressure drop, which allows the engine management computer to calculate the actual amount of exhaust gas flowing when the EGR valve is opened.
If the DPFE is defective, or if the pressure sampling ports or the hoses attached to them are clogged with deposits, the computer will think there is less or more EGR flow than there actually is, which can cause problems.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Mark Olson wrote:

Thanks. I have the same vehicle and I was curious.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Thu, 15 Jul 2004 20:20:00 -0600, "Swanny"

I have looked over some of the other replies to your problem. One question I have is; has anyone cleaned the EGR port in the intake? They have a tendency to foul and restrict or outright plug the EGR gas flow. Mine has plugged to the point that I could completely remove the EGR valve with no effect on performance or idle. It can and many time does give a code for improper DPFE readings. I have had the same problem with my CV. It is a bit of an oil burner and the problem will go away for 25-30K miles after a good cleanig and always shows up as a DPFE problem. Your low mileage indicates it may not always be operating at high enough temps to keep itself clean even though many of the miles are highway miles.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

egr systems are carburation legacy devices! when the throttle plate (valve) closes with your foot off the accelerator intake vac goes hi and subsequently the mixture rich and unburned hc hi. opening egr valve dilutes rich intake mixture and thus reducing unburnt hc. you know the egr system is working when you coast off the freeway and the engine stumbles or dies when you subsequently step on the accelerator. with cumputerized sfi there should be no reason for egr systems except that CARB likes them, manfacturers get by making you pay for them, and dealers get to sell you stuff and charge you $$$ to put the mil out! the amount of nox the egr system reduces is about zero. i've been getting a pi407 code for quite sometime on my 95 TB 4.6L. i just reset it with my obd2 codereader. maybe one of these times i'll try and clean the egr passage in the intake manifold. over the last 30+ yrs i've plugged vac lines to egr valves, blocked off valves and cleaned a few. i replaced one before i found out they were cleanable. who stuck us with this neusence CARB? the lord? the devil? obviousely i don't do this for a living -- i would not be complaining! the Charles O Probst' book on ford fuel injection is the best i've read on gasoline burning engines in years.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

================Dude, you need to read up on EGRs. All of your statements about them are dead wrong.
--
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com ).
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Your mileage is very low for the vehicle year. Do you make a lot of short trips? Or does the vehicle just not get a lot of use? Either way you're a candidate for getting a lot of sludge buildup due to the motor not getting good and warm when you drive. Condensation is your biggest enemy, and the only way to keep it down is to drive the car a decent distance at least once every 2 weeks or so in order to get it good and warm, and give it time to burn off the condensate. Another problem may be oil change intervals. Frequent short trips is severe duty, not light, and you should change the oil more often. Cutting the crud buildup will keep your EGR (and the rest of the motor!!!) cleaner and will make it last longer. I generally change the EGR valve every 2 years, but that's at the 25,000-30,000 mile time. They still rattle when I replace them.
--
Every day is a good day- it's just that some are better than others.

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
snipped-for-privacy@comcast.net wrote:

From all indications, it appears that you are in fact referring to the *PCV* valve.
Not the same thing...
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Neil Nelson wrote:

LOL, Relief, I thought it was just me having senioritus.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
oops!!
--
Every day is a good day- it's just that some are better than others.

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Related Threads

    Motorsforum.com is a website by car enthusiasts for car enthusiasts. It is not affiliated with any of the car or spare part manufacturers or car dealers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.