Engine on 5 or 4 cylinders

I have a bad rod bearing on my 94 Sable and I want to replace the engine but not in the winter. If I disconnect the spark plug and injector so that the affected
cylinder doesn't fire will the engine last longer? The engine will shake a bit. Will that ruin the engine quickly? What if I disconnect two opposite cylinders so that the engine will be more balanced? Less power but who cares.
Thank you
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I remember demos of some "power igniter" piece of junk, sold by some huckster in the parking lot of a major store. He'd pull off a plug wire and show how rough your engine would run if it were missing on one cylinder. Then he would switch over to his igniter widget and "to make this even harder" he would pull another plug wire. The engine would idle just fine. My dad pointed out that he was balancing the engine when he pulled the second plug.
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Clarence A Dold - Hidden Valley (Lake County) CA USA 38.8-122.5
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If you disconnect the spark plug wire, then you have a bigger problem: Unburned fuel will be going to the catalyic convertor. About 2 or 3 gallons per hour. If you disconnect the spark plug wire, you also have stop the fuel from going to the cylinder. I imagine it will get pretty darn hot.
Plus, with a bad rod bearing, you will be putting the rod through the block, anyway. As long as the rod is connected to the crankshart, the engine won't last long, even without a spark. Think new engine now.
Or get a used car and fix this one in the spring.
Jeff
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to get those torque converter nuts off once the engine won't turn over any more. Bob
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Alpha One wrote:

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Alpha One opined in

Look, the rod is still going to knock.
What you have to do is avoid bearing seize.
It MAY or may not be too late but you have a chance if you change oil to Mobil1 15w50, this will prevent the high parts of the bearing from overheating due to friction and carbonizing the lube.. once carbonized it eventually breaks loose and that is what causes seizing.
Mobil 1 has a much higher gas-out to solid quotient
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Disconnecting the spark plug doesn't help, it still knocks as you said. And it knocks more when not acelerating. The noise does not appear to be worst when the cylinder is firing. When idling the noise isn't there. It's there when starting to acelerating or when I release the gas pedal. (Something like that.)
The engine would be muck smoother if the cylinder wasn't there because it still has compression.
So, I put 20-50 Synthetic Oil in it and I have driven about 80 miles since. I am not sure if it is holding, but it does not appear to be getting worst.
If the noise starts to increase I can always replace the engine then.
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I suggest running it till she dies... how many miles... think new car forget new engine.
If you are going to pop the plug wires off two cylenders, have you considered also removing the plugs to eliminate the compression... nothing there to compress so why makeit work harder?
If you have crappy rings this may make oil get everywhere so watch it.
Kenny

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Hey.... now there's a plan LOL! All that noise will alert everyone that an idiot is nearby... Bob
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That's a pretty noisy thing to do. Removing the valve lifters would be a better idea, similar to my Honda Civic that shuts down three cylinders completely during coasting. The Cadillac V4-6-8 did that in the 80's.
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Clarence A Dold - Hidden Valley (Lake County) CA USA 38.8-122.5
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snipped-for-privacy@XReXXEngin.usenet.us.com wrote:

Of course removing the lifters will result in a massive loss of oil pressure...
...next brilliant idea?
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You don't get it , do yah
Offcourse you have to drain the oil first, yah cant loose what yah don't have...........
At least the knocking noise will be gone faster
:-)

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removing the rocker arms and pushrods, leaving the lifters.

That's a bit testy, in such a ridiculous thread in the first place.
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Clarence A Dold - Hidden Valley (Lake County) CA USA 38.8-122.5
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snipped-for-privacy@XReXXEngin.usenet.us.com wrote:

The camshaft will just kick the lifters out of their bore, same result.

And you're giving it all the help it needs.
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I don't think so. The initial push would be at cranking speed. After that, they should stay up in the bore due to stiction on the o-rings. Unless you hit a bump in the road. Then it might be more interesting.

Sure.
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How about removing the engine and push the car? The car would be lighter to push. The speed wouldn't be much but at least there would be no noise. :-)
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Replace the engine after it explodes, but don't pass up a chance like this.
Run that crank hard until the rod comes screamin' through the block, it will make for a great story over a few beers with your buds.
Besides, when you are stuck on the side of the road waiting for AAA you can look inside the engine compartment and say to yourself "I did that!". Keep a disposable camera in the glove. Moments like these are worth planning for.
Matt
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