F150 Brakes

I've had it with Ford brakes. It's been pretty much the same story on every light duty Ford I've had since dawn of time. Everyt time they turned them, and I don't know why they fooled with them
in the first place, they warped within a few miles. The pads have a lot of miles left. You can't simply replace the rotor. The rotor and hub are inetgral. They want nearly 500.00 just replace the front rotors as part of front axle a brake job. The cost of the rotor/hub is around 135.00-150.00 each from Ford or local shops. This can't be right. Is there a source for these things at a better price that won't warp when the sun hits them?
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Frog Britches wrote:

I can't believe I wore out a set of rear rotors and pads on my 08 F150 in 35,000KMS... whats that in miles... 17k?
I heard it making a noise... and it kindda sounded like pads but i said WTF... can't wear out REAR pads in 35k kms... sure enough... pads were right to the metal.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

I have always had rotor warpage problems with my Ford trucks. The brand and source of the rotors has not made too much difference. The biggest help I found was mostly accidental when I last replaced the pads. I had the rotors resurfaced but, the store did not have the Bendix Titanium Metallic pads I have used on everything for years. All they had was a set of Morse Ceramics which they gave me to get me going again. After more than 10k miles, thwe brakes are still strong and smooth with no indication of the usual warpage I have resigned myself to live with. I replaced the pads on my wife's Sable without surfacing the rotors after that with the ceramic metallic pads. It had a slight shudder before the pads but, the lathe was down at the store. I decided to put the pads on anyways and just pull the rotors later if it was too bad. I was very pleasantly surprised to find the shudder reduced to the point of almost imperceptible. I know this is not scientific but, I will continue to use the ceramic pads until I find something terribly different than what I have seen so far. Clean wheels is also a nice benefit of ceramics
BTW, you should be able to buy the rotors with bearing races installed and just replace them yourself for far less than $500/pr. You don't say what years truck you have but, the last rotors I bought a couple of years ago were made in Australia and set me back about $35/ea. Quality seemed to be on par with any others I have bought over the years. It may pay you to shop around if you can't do it yourself.
Lugnut
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
in article BQJll.1400$ snipped-for-privacy@newsfe04.iad, Frog Britches at @rib.bit wrote on 2/14/09 5:02 PM:

I never turn the rotors ... I only replace the pads with factory issue and do so BEFORE they are needed to be replaced usually at 90K miles they have to go, rear brakes often times go to 110K miles before swapping. I am done with 1/2 ton's and plough around in an F250 Diesel now .. brakes are just fine at 145K miles now.
I always flush the brake fluid from the master cylinder to the slave cylinders with every brake swap ... as the old brake fluid leaves pitting and rust in the system from dirt and water condensation common to use if left to its own devices.
Sometimes the rotor is scored as the metal rivets or parts cut it up a bit, I still just replace the pads, and let the pad polish the rotor over use. There is a required spring clip and anti-vibration goop that is usefull to have in top condition when replacing it out in those cases that need it.
My advice over time .. leave the rotor alone short of preventive maintenance in getting to it ahead of time, and just keep factory issued parts in it ... you have a heat issue with warping ... and that comes from something you are doing in the repair ... as the factory out the showroom floor gets it right for the first 90K miles beyond warrenty ... ya think ???
So the system performs ... you just have to fit into that performance factory spec profile ... or do better then factory specs ... get cooler pads if you are going to cut rotors ... go after market that makes sense and accounts for your leaving factory specs ... IMO and all that rot !!!
sumbuddie wear blind sea
:)
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

If you are a two footed driver that is the problem. (unless you have a clutch of course.) KB
--
THUNDERSNAKE #9

Protect your rights or "Lose" them
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
My experience: I have an F-150 supercab with 5.4 engine and 4 wheel disc brakes. My F-150 has 184,000 miles on it. I change brake pads every 25,000 miles. I buy the best pads that auto zone has. I did also change all my rotors. I bought vented, slotted rotors. The truck stops a lot better with these rotors. I have never had any problems with my brake system. I change my own pads, only a 30 minute job....
Frog Britches wrote:

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Motorsforum.com is a website by car enthusiasts for car enthusiasts. It is not affiliated with any of the car or spare part manufacturers or car dealers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.