Flushing Out a Heater Core

PS - Forgot to say - the Hot-Cold lever is opening and closing air to the floor, vent or windshield properly.

"Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney" wrote in message news: snipped-for-privacy@earthlink.com... Back to the 97 Aerostar again.... It appears that the heater core is nearly plugged. Some heat gets through, but not much.

Heater valve & vacuum work fine. A friend said to pull the valve off and connect a garden hose to the outlet and hit it with some short blasts of from the garden hose. Then connect to the inlet and repeat until it flows free and clean.

But, and this is a big butt, I have done these kind of things before and been sorry later. So I thought I'd ask the online brain center for some (good) advice first. The last thing I want to do is open a leak in the core and hose down the front seat.

If you are scared of wetting the seat remove the heater core first - and just buy a new one. They are only about $65 US, You DO need the special tool to remove the quick-connect hose connectors on the core, but replacing the core is a pretty simple job as far as aerostar repairs are concerned.

Just because there is restricted flow does not mean it's in the core - though it may be . So start off with the hose just cracked on a little , and don't use any clamps so it can blow off at low pressure . I'm having a similar blockage problem with our '99 4Runner , but it's apparently caused by deposits in the water jackets/cooling system that have flaked off . I used some CLR to flush the cooling system after a thorough rinse to remove the A/F , which has helped but not cured the problem . Yours could also be caused by a hose with a degraded lining , a flap blocking the hose - that is often accompanied by a bulged hose .

Do a chemical flushing proper then. Reverse flush too.

Kinda hard to do with the quick-connect hose system Ford uses on the heater cores - - - - No clamps.

I've found that if I leave the ten minute rad flush in for two days, the water pump seals leak. And then I have to replace the water pump.

When using ANY automotive chemical it is VERY important to follow the instructions to the letter. Actually not just automotive chemicals.. It is generally unsafe to use any chemicals (or medications) in ways other than those recommended by the manufacturer.

Hello, Captain obvious! I wrote to share an experience I had, and save others from making the same mistake. Your reply has all the sound of a condescending superior being who is stating the obvious to the ignorant peasants. Must suck to be surrounded by people who make mistakes, your royal Lordship.

- . Christopher A. Young learn more about Jesus .

No , Mr Thinskin. I'm just replying , indirectly, to all the guys on this newsgroup who complain about products like rad sealers plugging their cooling systems, changing transmission fluid damaging their transmissions, etc and claiming automotive chemicals are all useless or worse.

My experience over half a century and more (ouch - that makes me feel OLD!!!!) is there are many good automotive chemical - or as some call them "mechanic in a can" products out there that can really save you a lot of work and money "if used as directed"

I've made my mistakes too, in learning that lesson.

Lesson one - when using a "fast chemical flush" be VERY carefull when you open the rad cap. I had a combination of chemical burns and scalding that would have been a lot worse if I hadn't run into the carwash immediately and hosed myself down - I was 16 and stupid at the time!!

snipped-for-privacy@snyder.on.ca posted for all of us...

You mean I should not double up my meth dose when I get a little twitchy?

Oh you boys. LOL!!!!

I generally stay away from any chemical flushing other than adding some liquid laundry detergent, mainly because the same reason - not knowing the condition the parts or what it might do if splashed on my stylish work clothes. Another reason for me is spilling a few drops into the gutter and having some save-the-planet freak call hazmat central. I grew up in a small town and never cease to be amazed at how ignorant the average big city suburban about any kind of do-it-yourself project. Butt I digress....

the floor, vent or windshield properly.

nearly plugged. Some heat gets through, but not much.

and connect a garden hose to the outlet and hit it with some short blasts of from the garden hose. Then connect to the inlet and repeat until it flows free and clean.

and been sorry later. So I thought I'd ask the online brain center for some (good) advice first. The last thing I want to do is open a leak in the core and hose down the front seat.

Good advice. I'm not a big fan of repairing the same part more than once. I'll disconnect it at the valve and if the valve is clear and working properly, I'll squirt the hose into the inlet and outlet a few times without pressurizing it. Then if it doesn't start flowing with a few bursts, I'll swap out the core.

Oh, and I'll be sure to swap the front tires right to left, for good measure. ;O)

Good point about the plastic cap. I have been checking it every time I check the oil and so far it hasn't leaked. After draining the original coolant, I filled it with water with 1/4 cup of liquid laundry detergent, let the engine heat up and drove it around the block a few times, then drained it. Next 2 flushes were water only. Then used the prestone T until it ran clear.

"Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney" wrote in message news: snipped-for-privacy@earthlink.com... Back to the 97 Aerostar again.... It appears that the heater core is nearly plugged. Some heat gets through, but not much.

Heater valve & vacuum work fine. A friend said to pull the valve off and connect a garden hose to the outlet and hit it with some short blasts of from the garden hose. Then connect to the inlet and repeat until it flows free and clean.

But, and this is a big butt, I have done these kind of things before and been sorry later. So I thought I'd ask the online brain center for some (good) advice first. The last thing I want to do is open a leak in the core and hose down the front seat.

Why the heck are you using a Windstar manual to diagnosw an Aerostar??? TOTALLY different animals. Get the right manual, or get someone who knows what the heck is going on to fix it!!!!!

Thanks Rick.

nearly plugged. Some heat gets through, but not much.

and connect a garden hose to the outlet and hit it with some short blasts of from the garden hose. Then connect to the inlet and repeat until it flows free and clean.

and been sorry later. So I thought I'd ask the online brain center for some (good) advice first. The last thing I want to do is open a leak in the core and hose down the front seat.

to heater again and it is working properly. Once the engine was hot and valve open, both hoses between valve and heater core were hot.

to windshield and panel vents OK, but no air flows to floor. Also, with temp control set to hot, air to both windshield and panel vents is cold.

again next time. I was planning to dig into this today, but rain's a coming and I have to climb up the pole here at the old Haney place and replace a few shingles that sailed off last week.

Thanks!!!! I found the info for 97 Aerostar/Ranger!!!!