Flushing Out a Heater Core

Back to the 97 Aerostar again.... It appears that the heater core is nearly plugged. Some heat gets through, but not much.
Heater valve & vacuum work fine. A friend said to pull the valve off
and connect a garden hose to the outlet and hit it with some short blasts of from the garden hose. Then connect to the inlet and repeat until it flows free and clean.
But, and this is a big butt, I have done these kind of things before and been sorry later. So I thought I'd ask the online brain center for some (good) advice first. The last thing I want to do is open a leak in the core and hose down the front seat.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
PS - Forgot to say - the Hot-Cold lever is opening and closing air to the floor, vent or windshield properly.
in message Back to the 97 Aerostar again.... It appears that the heater core is nearly plugged. Some heat gets through, but not much.
Heater valve & vacuum work fine. A friend said to pull the valve off and connect a garden hose to the outlet and hit it with some short blasts of from the garden hose. Then connect to the inlet and repeat until it flows free and clean.
But, and this is a big butt, I have done these kind of things before and been sorry later. So I thought I'd ask the online brain center for some (good) advice first. The last thing I want to do is open a leak in the core and hose down the front seat.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Sun, 27 Dec 2015 10:55:56 -0800, "Snuffy \"Hub Cap\" McKinney"

If you are scared of wetting the seat remove the heater core first - and just buy a new one. They are only about $65 US, You DO need the special tool to remove the quick-connect hose connectors on the core, but replacing the core is a pretty simple job as far as aerostar repairs are concerned.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

nearly plugged. Some heat gets through, but not much.

and connect a garden hose to the outlet and hit it with some short blasts of from the garden hose. Then connect to the inlet and repeat until it flows free and clean.

and been sorry later. So I thought I'd ask the online brain center for some (good) advice first. The last thing I want to do is open a leak in the core and hose down the front seat.

Good advice. I'm not a big fan of repairing the same part more than once. I'll disconnect it at the valve and if the valve is clear and working properly, I'll squirt the hose into the inlet and outlet a few times without pressurizing it. Then if it doesn't start flowing with a few bursts, I'll swap out the core.
Oh, and I'll be sure to swap the front tires right to left, for good measure. ;O)
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney wrote:

Just because there is restricted flow does not mean it's in the core - though it may be . So start off with the hose just cracked on a little , and don't use any clamps so it can blow off at low pressure . I'm having a similar blockage problem with our '99 4Runner , but it's apparently caused by deposits in the water jackets/cooling system that have flaked off . I used some CLR to flush the cooling system after a thorough rinse to remove the A/F , which has helped but not cured the problem . Yours could also be caused by a hose with a degraded lining , a flap blocking the hose - that is often accompanied by a bulged hose .
--
Snag



Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Terry Coombs wrote:

Do a chemical flushing proper then. Reverse flush too.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On 12/27/2015 3:37 PM, Tony Hwang wrote:

I've found that if I leave the ten minute rad flush in for two days, the water pump seals leak. And then I have to replace the water pump.
--
.
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Sun, 27 Dec 2015 19:25:16 -0500, Stormin Mormon

When using ANY automotive chemical it is VERY important to follow the instructions to the letter. Actually not just automotive chemicals.. It is generally unsafe to use any chemicals (or medications) in ways other than those recommended by the manufacturer.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On 12/27/2015 8:03 PM, snipped-for-privacy@snyder.on.ca wrote:

Hello, Captain obvious! I wrote to share an experience I had, and save others from making the same mistake. Your reply has all the sound of a condescending superior being who is stating the obvious to the ignorant peasants. Must suck to be surrounded by people who make mistakes, your royal Lordship.
- . Christopher A. Young learn more about Jesus . www.lds.org . .
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Mon, 28 Dec 2015 07:33:50 -0500, Stormin Mormon

No , Mr Thinskin. I'm just replying , indirectly, to all the guys on this newsgroup who complain about products like rad sealers plugging their cooling systems, changing transmission fluid damaging their transmissions, etc and claiming automotive chemicals are all useless or worse.
My experience over half a century and more (ouch - that makes me feel OLD!!!!) is there are many good automotive chemical - or as some call them "mechanic in a can" products out there that can really save you a lot of work and money "if used as directed"
I've made my mistakes too, in learning that lesson.
Lesson one - when using a "fast chemical flush" be VERY carefull when you open the rad cap. I had a combination of chemical burns and scalding that would have been a lot worse if I hadn't run into the carwash immediately and hosed myself down - I was 16 and stupid at the time!!
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
wrote:

the

use

by

Oh you boys. LOL!!!!
I generally stay away from any chemical flushing other than adding some liquid laundry detergent, mainly because the same reason - not knowing the condition the parts or what it might do if splashed on my stylish work clothes. Another reason for me is spilling a few drops into the gutter and having some save-the-planet freak call hazmat central. I grew up in a small town and never cease to be amazed at how ignorant the average big city suburban about any kind of do-it-yourself project. Butt I digress....
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
snipped-for-privacy@snyder.on.ca posted for all of us...

You mean I should not double up my meth dose when I get a little twitchy?
--
Tekkie

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
wrote:

Kinda hard to do with the quick-connect hose system Ford uses on the heater cores - - - - No clamps.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

let

see

system.

that.

which

parts

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Prestone-Antifreeze-Coolant-Flush-N-Fill-Kit-5906 0-/221978480521

flushing

the

Good point about the plastic cap. I have been checking it every time I check the oil and so far it hasn't leaked. After draining the original coolant, I filled it with water with 1/4 cup of liquid laundry detergent, let the engine heat up and drove it around the block a few times, then drained it. Next 2 flushes were water only. Then used the prestone T until it ran clear.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
in message Back to the 97 Aerostar again.... It appears that the heater core is nearly plugged. Some heat gets through, but not much.
Heater valve & vacuum work fine. A friend said to pull the valve off and connect a garden hose to the outlet and hit it with some short blasts of from the garden hose. Then connect to the inlet and repeat until it flows free and clean.
But, and this is a big butt, I have done these kind of things before and been sorry later. So I thought I'd ask the online brain center for some (good) advice first. The last thing I want to do is open a leak in the core and hose down the front seat.
--

I finally got some time to spend on this...

First I check the open/close valve that controls coolant flow valve to
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Sat, 2 Jan 2016 11:57:04 -0800, "Snuffy \"Hub Cap\" McKinney"

Why the heck are you using a Windstar manual to diagnosw an Aerostar??? TOTALLY different animals. Get the right manual, or get someone who knows what the heck is going on to fix it!!!!!
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

nearly plugged. Some heat gets through, but not much.

and connect a garden hose to the outlet and hit it with some short blasts of from the garden hose. Then connect to the inlet and repeat until it flows free and clean.

and been sorry later. So I thought I'd ask the online brain center for some (good) advice first. The last thing I want to do is open a leak in the core and hose down the front seat.

to heater again and it is working properly. Once the engine was hot and valve open, both hoses between valve and heater core were hot.

to windshield and panel vents OK, but no air flows to floor. Also, with temp control set to hot, air to both windshield and panel vents is cold.

again next time. I was planning to dig into this today, but rain's a coming and I have to climb up the pole here at the old Haney place and replace a few shingles that sailed off last week.

122/

Thanks!!!! I found the info for 97 Aerostar/Ranger!!!!
http://visualbits.net/Car%20Stuff/Ford%20Ranger%201993-1999/12%20CLIMATE% 20CONTROL%20SYSTEM/12-02A%20Heating%20and%20Defrosting,%20Ranger.pdf !!!!
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Thanks Rick.


nearly

and

of

flows

and

some

the core

include

heater

cooling

outlet

male end

and

valve is

core

minutes.

installed

the

water

of the

pump

engine

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Related Threads

    Motorsforum.com is a website by car enthusiasts for car enthusiasts. It is not affiliated with any of the car or spare part manufacturers or car dealers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.