Flushing trans and adjusting bands

I know, wrong forum but nobody answers over there. I have a 2001 Dodge Durango and would like to know if this is possible for the do it yourselfer. Or could someone recommend a good fix it book that tells how.
Thanks
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Go into the parts store and schmooze a couple clerks as to which book is best for that truck or trans.? Haynes or whatever..It should cover it.
you know.. you DONT really HAVE to flush the thing if it hasnt been abused, right?
New fluid according to OEM specs, filter, clean pan and check magnet.
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Thanks Backyard, Just got it from son-in-law and daughter so I know it wasn't abused. You only get half out though don't you? That is, if you just drain the pan. Ther's no drain on the torque converter. Is it not that big a deal to get it all out? Thanks
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On Fri, 07 Apr 2006 22:47:03 -0400, "ankhe105"

If you have access to the torque converter thru a hole or access cover in the bottom of the bellhousing, the converter may have a plug like many rear drive Fords. If so, you can drain the converter as well as the pan which should get at leasr 85-90% of the old fluid out. You will nee to have a way to turn the engine while you watch for the appearance of a plug in the converter. Also be aware that many Mopars use a special fluid.
Lugnut
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ankhe105 wrote:

If you have a tranny fluid cooler I know of at least one person that described how they disconnected the lines and stuck the supply side into a bucket of new tranny fluid and the return line into an empty bucket for the old fluid. They drive an F-250.
Never tried it myself but basically a tranny fluid transfusion. You're supposed to dump the pan and replace the filter first, etc., get that part done before you try this. You probably need two people, one to work the shift lever through the bands and someone else to watch the buckets. Don't suck any air into the lines.
If you try it post your results!
Good luck
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snipped-for-privacy@optonline.net wrote:

Actually, you would put the output of the cooler into a bucket and add the fluid through the fill tube. There's no suction on the line back to the trans. It works pretty well. Just be careful, it can get messy quick if you're not careful. On modern transmissions, since the 80s, there are no band adjustments.
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Good info folks. The owner's manual does say ther is no drain plug in the T/C so will have to go the suction route. Not sure if I want to get into that myself but if I do, will let you know how it goes. Thanks a lot
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Suction route?!!!
Get a book and do it proper!
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Just a figure of speech backyard. I would get the book first. Tranny is not something to do halfazz
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I have bought factory service manuals on Ebay for cheap! It seems everyone has one on CD or DVD. Just look closely to be sure it is the factory shop manual, the aftermarket ones leave too much stuff out...
my 2 cents - PoD

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Are you kidding!
After trawling through that CD manual for troubleshooting purposes, I find the thought of using it for service, less than appetizing. I could be wrong.. but Haynes usually covers the basics quite well.
I, of course, have both.
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Backyard Mechanic wrote:

Haynes manuals are ok for general information but less than worthless for most vehicle specific information. The earlier CDs were easy(er)to navigate once you got the hang of the layout. The later ones do kinda suck. I've been using them for a long time and really don't have a problem with them. The best idea is still to get the factory paper manual set. They are worth the investment. Something I've noticed with factory manuals and Ebay lately, for a long time you could get a full set for about $60 or less. Now there are many "manual sellers" cropping up and driving up the prices to rediculous(sp) highs. This, in turn, is making the casual sellers up their starting price.
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I still prefer the paper manuals. I have gotten a real set from Helm for every car I have owned. I picked up the CD version recently because Helm couldn't provide the emissions manual on paper for my '95. I have futzed with them enough I can usually get what I need.
My first shop manual was for my 1967 Thunderbird. It was one book, less than 2" thick (probably not much over 1"). It covered everything for the "Bird, including engine and carb rebuilding. When I got the books for my 1984 "Bird, I had to get the full line set. A book for each part but it was not as easy to use. The newest ones assume quite a bit of knowledge and training.
PoD

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