focus high idle!!

Doug,

If it hasn't done it for 64,000 miles then it sounds like you have a concern. There is a normal delay of idling down after the clutch is depressed to keep the engine from stalling however 3000 rpm's sounds excessive.

One problem I've seen on many ford's is a defective IAC (idle air speed control). This component is regulated by the processor and controls the air bypassing the throttle plate to control idle. The symptoms of a defective IAC are high idle or no idle (Stall). It's either one or the other. The IAC mounts at the throttle body and simply allows air to flow at a controlled rate past the closed throttle plate.

An IAC concern is usually not detected by a scan tool (code retrieval).

The other component that will affect the idle speed is a mass air flow sensor. This component is located at the air filter box. It's symptoms are usually erratic idle speeds and/or bucking/hesitating on acceleration.

If your symptoms are always exactly the same and you sure it didn't do it before my money would be on an IAC.

Hope this helps,

John

Your description of what the IAC does is exactly as the tech at the dealer explained it. He also said it's controlled by the computer.

When it first started, I stopped at another dealer and he said it sounded like an AIC problem. SO I took it to my regular dealer and you can see the response I got.

Can I install this myself? Or is something a dealer has to do?

Thanks, Doug

characteristic

In searching the web for the part... I found an "Idle Speed Control" for my focus. Cost $68 list price, does this seem correct? If so.... can I find documentation on how to install it or is it pretty simple. I'm worried that something in the computer may need reprogrammed.

-Doug snipped-for-privacy@localnet.com

characteristic

Doug,

I just spoke to a friend at a ford dealer and he gave me the part #. There are two different #'s. The single cam engine takes a ys4z-9f715-AA. The dual overhead cam engine takes n XS6Z-9f715-AB.

He also said he doesn't sell very many of them. The cost is $68.00 for either.

The one thing he said he does sell alot of are the DPFE sensors. He said they are going bad left and right on the focus.

With that being said, it's been a while since I've seen a focus engine but for the most part IAC's are very simple to replace. Two bolt's requiring a ten mm socket will remove it and I believe it has a rubber o-ring/gasket. You will not have to reset anything on the computer however it may have learned a few bad habits. If this is the case simply warm the engine to operating temperature, shut vehicle off, disconnect the battery for 5 minutes, reconnect and go for a nice long road test. The proper drive cycle test consists of multiple stop and go's along with steady driving and yada yada yada. Just drive the vehicle like you normally would and you will be fine.

Once again, your sure it hasn't happened in the past?

Good luck,

Should just involve removing the connector and two bolts, replace gasket and the IAC, and reinstall bolts and connector. Probably should either disconnect the battery or reset the computer to defaults (if you have a scanner) as well.

Well for $68, I'll do it myself. Rather than paying my dealer $66/hr to monkey with it.

Thanks, Doug snipped-for-privacy@localnet.com

Been fine for nearly 60,000miles...never done it before.

What is the DPFE sensor, forgive me for being uneducated in the million and one sensors in a ford. ;-)

Yeah, I have the DOHC engine, the Zetec 2.0L. Thank god...the split port

2.0L (SOHC) sucks.

Thanks, Doug snipped-for-privacy@localnet.com

retrieval).

The comprehensive procedure if you're really anal retentive (and have a scanner that can read real time data):

Well,

My problem has become worse. I was driving home and I felt the car pushing itself! I pushed in the clutch and it revved up. It went to about

3000rpm's and then pulsed between 3,000 - 4200rpm's. It did this for over a minute, until I took the car out of neutral and shifted.

I realized it's beyond my abilities to replace the IAC.... I have to remove the intake manifold and the alternator or fuel injection. (According to Chilton's Manual).

I'm going to see if I can sue ford for a drivability hazard.

Thanks for your help!

-Doug

Doug,

Call ford hotline at 1-800-241-Ford. Tell them your problem. they will jump on it because it's a safety issue. Have your vin# and milaeage handy. The other option is to ask your dealer to have the factory rep drive it. (this only works if the mileage is under 50k and you are the original owner.Also lemon law past 12k is going to be an uphill battle. Hopefully it won't come to that.

characteristic

Well....

A lawyer returned my call today. SPecializing in Auto Law. They said they couldn't get it in under Lemon Law but they could under a Mag Moss Act... They said they settle instead of replace the vehicle, like in lemon laws.

I think I'm going to let them pursue it. The car has been terrible since day one. A real disappointment. :-(

Thanks for your help.... I'll keep the hotline in mind if I run into any problems with the suit.

-Doug

Great, I'm glad you found some legal recourse. Your car definitely is a safety hazard if it idles at 3,000-4,000 RPM. Especially since Ford says that's the way it is supposed to be adn refuses to fix it. Good luck, and let us know how it turns out.

loOooLL

(According

Have you checked the TPS (Throddle Position Sensor)? I assume that it has one.