Ford A/C Quick Disconnect problem

I have 1987 Coachamn Class C RV which is on a Ford E350 chasis. I have a problem with A/C system. O rings are leaking in the quick-connect. I got the tool to seperate
the quick-connect. When I push the tool in, I can hear the spring snap back, but I still can't disconnect it. I tried several things from pulling, pushing, using vice grips and screw driver, but nothing works. Has anyone came aross this situation? Any advice on how to get it seperated to change the O rings?
As a last resort, if I can't get it seperated, I was thinking of pooring some apoxy into the joint to keep it from leaking. :) Any thoughts?
Thanks
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First have you discharged the system? If you have any pressure you will not be able to disconnect the lines and if you did you could be injured.

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Yes, the system is discharged. Besides, with O rings leaking, there was not much to discharge. I guess I will have to soak the heck out of the connections with penetrating oil and let it sit for a day or so.
doc wrote:

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Take a plier and twist the connection to break the O-rings loose.... over time they can almost "marry" the connection..
HTH

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Yes, the system is discharged. Besides with O rings leaking there was not much to discharge. I guess I will have to soak the heck out of joints with penetrating oil and let it sit for a day or two.
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snipped-for-privacy@mailcity.com wrote:

they get dirt and crap wedged in there soak it down alternating days with brake cleaner and penetrating fluid... its should come apart ... note vise grips may have made the housing out of round and now o-rings wont work you may have to replace the hose as well... tks ford for those crappy connectors.... (fuel lines too) what was wrong with flare nuts like chevy had or even chryslers one piece braket with one bolt...
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snipped-for-privacy@mailcity.com wrote:

There are spring lock disconnect tools, and then there are good spring lock disconnect tools. The ones sold at most chain parts stores (Auto zone, Advance, Pep-Boys...) are one step up from junk and will only work on good, clean fittings. These tools are either: All white one piece plastic that snap over the line. (The better of the bad), or Multi colored one piece plastic, flat with a ring around the center hole. (The absolute worst). Each size is a different color. I've been there and done that numerous times with these tools when I didn't have my "good" set with me. They are usually as bad as not having the tool at all. The white ones are a slightly stiffer plastic and work better, you have a chance. If you have the multi-colored ones, you may as well stop now. The "real spring lock tools" are 2 pieces, hinged and spring loaded and made of hard plastic. They clamp around the entire fitting. IIRC, they are about $50 for a set that covers the AC sizes. There are also 2 sizes for fuel lines. NAPA used to carry them. I got mine from MAC Tools. They were pricy but they have paid for themselves many times over. Using my set, I've only had 3 SL fittings that I couldn't separate. That's in ~20 years and all 3 were Gen I Taurus Evaporator outlet fittings. There was some electrolysis going on. Ford Tempo evap. outlets could be tough also. Your E-van shouldn't be at all difficult. Don't do the epoxy thing. The oil will weaken the epoxy and it will leak. Then the real repair will much cost more. Buy the correct tools and fix it right. You will still save $$$. Stay away from "AC system sealers", they can wreak havoc on your system and cause HUGE repair bills when they don't work. I'm sure you are aware that, since the system is empty, you need to replace the accumulator\receiver-dryer and pull a hard vacuum on the system before you charge it. In case you didn't know, thats what you have to do. Especially on a motor home chassis. That's an R-12 system. Being an E-350 motor home chassis, It will take poorly to an R-134a conversion, if that is what you're considering, especially if the cab AC is tied into the living compartment AC (I can't see Coachmen doing this, but anything is possible). I know this from experience. The condenser is too small and the underhood temps are too high. Vans in general are marginal candidates for conversion. IF you're converting to R-134a and IF the front AC isn't tied into the rear you also need to change the orifice tube to the next size smaller (Orange, IIRC).
I'm not trying to be a smartass or talk you out of fixing your problem, I'm just trying to let you in on the facts. AC repair is more than just fixing the leak and charging the system. if you need some assistance, email me and I may be able to help.             Regards, Tom Adkins PS, At least check out the Forum at www.aircondition.org. They can offer a lot of help also.
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Tom Adkins wrote:

you can also try duralcool the ac guys up here in canada are having great luck with it in r 12 systems.. in fact my buddy skip has a catering truck ie lunchwagon and we got it charged up with duracool ... never adjusted the thermostat or anything started blowing near freaazing air out right away. any colder and the evap would freeze. the old guy (he has been doing ac for more than 30 years claims it usually works as good or better than r 12.. only thing is you should upgrade the hoses to new lines as it may (unproven yet) not work well with older r12 hoses
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Thanks Tom, you gave me some good points. You are right, I was just going to replace the O rings and recharge the system. I guess I will have to read up more before I continue. No, the living compartment has a seperate AC from the Cab. As far as underhood temps, yes, they used to be high, but once I replaced manifold with headers, it is much cooler now. I tried to go the web site you mentioned, www.aircondition.org , but the web site is for sale. Did they discontinue or is the name wrong? Once again, thanks. I will do some more research, and if I have questions I will email you.
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snipped-for-privacy@mailcity.com wrote:

Oops, the forum has moved. Try here http://www.acsource.net/acforum /
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