Ford Ranger won't start. Just clicks

I have a 1996 Ford Ranger XLT 4.0. I was installing the OEM CD player that I purchased. For whatever reason it will no longer start. Everything lights up when the ignition is in "run" but when I turn it
to start it has a light click. It seems like a starter problem but I've had not previous trouble so it seems very coincidental that it would happen the day I'm installing something. I did blow the audio fuse (forgot to unhook the battery) but that was replaced. Are there any voltage tests I can do to trouble shoot the problem?
Thanks much
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This may sound like a silly question but did you have the key on or doors open for any length of time. It kinda sounds like a dead/weak battery.
Please confirm that the battery is up to par and we can go from there.
John

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I don't think it's the battery. I've put it on the charger and even jumped it. If I had not just worked on it and it didn't start, I'd be checking the solenoid and the starter. I guess I'm just wondering is, can the computer can keep the car from starting or is as simple as key-ignition-battery-solenoid-starter?

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I should have prefaced this with it only clicks once. Unlike a dead or dying battery where it multiple clicks. Click might not even be the right word. Picture trying to start an automatic transmission vehicle while it is in gear. You have power to everything thing but when the ignition is turned to the "start" position, you get nothing.
snipped-for-privacy@comcast.net (Dawg) wrote in message

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Dawg opined in

And... do those lights go out when you're in start position?

{So...... to save a few bucks, you cut the factory wiring? Arrrgggggghhhhh!}
And THEN you unhooked battery, right? If so start there.

With ign switch to "Start", every connection from the batt Pos post to the big post on starter should read 8 volts or more in relation to the Engine Block.
And evry connection to the batt NEG post should read 0 to 1 volts in relation to engine block.
Neg Post to Pos post should be at least 11.8 Volts, nothing on and 8 volts in start.
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//And... do those lights go out when you're in start position?
The lights go out in the start position. I believe this should happen, right? I have a starter and the solenoid mounted on the starter purchased and ready to try if need be. Would the starter relay/solenoid by the battery cause this?
Oh yeah in reference to: //{So...... to save a few bucks, you cut the factory wiring? Arrrgggggghhhhh!}
It was actually the after-market CD changer I was removing that was installed by the dealer. =)

Whate will this tell me if all the voltages check out or don't check out? I'll try it tongight.
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1.Check and clean the battery cables. 2.Check the charge on the battery 3.Jump Across the Starter Solinoid If you do not know how ask someone else that has owned or owns a ford. If the unit starts replace the soliniod.
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It is a bad connection if the battery is at full charge. Probably at the battery or solenoid. Try removing and cleaning all connections starting at the battery toward the starter. You dont need to find someone who owns a Ford, ask a guy who owns a Chevy, he will know why your Ford wont start.

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I figured it out. Thanks to all who helped. The starter/relay fuse was misplaced. I had checked the fuse and it was fine....it was just in the wrong slot. No harm, no foul....just lots of time.
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So if the fuse was missing, what cause the solenoid to "click"?

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It wasn't the solenoid that was clicking. I guess it was just something else.
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