Ford - This is driving me nuts

The by-pass circuit runs from the solenoid "I" terminal to coil positive. When the solenoid is closed as is the case when the starter is engaged, battery + is internally jumpered inside the solenoid to the "I" terminal, this is what feeds the ignition coil during cranking. This is the way it is usually done prior to TFI ignition. The by-pass can also be done via the ignition switch. Go with what the wiring diagram indicates. Either way, you should be able to measure cranking battery volts at the coil positive when cranking the engine.

Another point to check is the ground inside the distributor, of the three wires running to the distributor, one is the ground for the ignition box, it is literally an eyelet screwed to the distributor housing (inside), but it depends on a clean ground all the way thru the housing AND where the distributor contacts the engine block, any corrosion between the distributor housing and the engine block will cause problems also.

Reply to
aarcuda69062
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middle of the OP.

That is the bypass circuit I am talking about. The power from the solenoid goes to the coil and the ignition module when the key is in 'start'.

If the solenoid is firing, the ignition switch has no issues. The power to start the coil comes from the solenoid.

So basically if the jumper works you likely have a bad connection either at the solenoid or ignition module or maybe a ratty crimp connector where the solenoid wire meets the resistor wire about a foot or so from the distributor inside the harness.

On my module itself, the bypass is the white wire with the 'run' power being the red wire on the two pronged plug and the solenoid tag is a blue wire. Don't know how much they varied the colors so that might be useless to you.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Reply to
Mike Romain

middle of the OP.

OK, I gotcha now. Yes, there is a wire on the "I" terminal on the solenoid, and it has power when I turn the IGN switch on. That's one of the reasons I changed the solenoid as my initial trial repair.

Just curious. Can I safely put a small 12V light bulb across the two coil terminals? Because this problem is intemittant, I thought I could do that and then I can easily know if there is power getting there. I am assuming the light would flash from the module and this would indicate if everything was working or not. I know I can go from the coil POS to an engine ground safely, but I hesitate to go to the coil NEG, since it could possibly harm the module. Anyone know?

Thanks again

Mark

Reply to
maradcliff

middle of the OP.

I use a multimeter. You can put alligator clips on it's probes so you can turn the key and see the meter at the same time.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Reply to
Mike Romain

check your coil to distributor plugwire for internal corrosion usually on coil end.

Reply to
o2pz5y402

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