fuel line repair

have an 88 t-bird, recently replaced the in-tank fuel pump. the return line was damaged, and now have a fuel leak. can i use a dorman compression union for the repair? someone told me that ford offers a fuel
line repair kit (that requires a special ford tool). my local ford parts dept. has no clue.can anybody help?
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

If you're SURE it's the return line, you should be able to use any compression union that fits snug..If it's the plastic line, make sure to use the little sleeves that fit inside the line.
--
Yeh, I'm a Krusty old Geezer, putting up with my 'smartass' is the price
you pay..DEAL with it!
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
redhotlx wrote:

sender? If it's the steel line on the sender, you're out of luck, You have to buy another sender. If it's a plastic line, it can be repaired, but the plastic line has to be heated to accept the metal fittings. Boiling water works best. The repair kit from Ford is for plastic line. The special tool is a crimper like device to push the coupler into the line. It may be best approach, but I never saw the tool as a Ford Tech until 2001. Heat the line in boiling water, insert and twist, heat again, push and twist, heat again, repeat, ...
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
I think I'm gonna try this boiling water method on the quick disconnect fitting at my fuel rail. Will the hot water harm the two O-rings on the fitting? How much are these crimper tools? Thanks
Tom Adkins wrote:

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Doc wrote:

years. Last time I tried to buy one at the dealer, though, the parts man said they weren't available anymore. You can trim the line back a little, just be careful that you don't get it too short. I was picturing your leak a few inches back from the disconnect. I've also heard of that installer tool, but never saw one. Specialty tools like that are pricy, not feasable for a one off repair. You would do well to just replace the o-rings. They are less than $2 and cheap insurance against a leak.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Motorsforum.com is a website by car enthusiasts for car enthusiasts. It is not affiliated with any of the car or spare part manufacturers or car dealers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.