Heater core replacement on '86 T-Bird. Insight requested.

I did the evaporator on my '86 Lincoln Mark VII a number of years ago. Took all day...outside...on a hot Texas August summer day. If you manage to get that far, I recommend you replace the evap along with the heater core. I followed the shop manual. Center console and dash must be moved to gain access. Stan K.

why dont you replace the engine too??

lmfao U GO GIRL

hurc ast

Urgh! I was hoping to hear better news, like...remove this one special screw and... ;-)

Being up north here I'll probably have a bit better weather for the job. Plus, my mom rarely uses the A/C so I'll probably pass on the evap. The system had a slooooooow leak anyhow and the R-12 I put in it 3 years ago is most likely leaked out by now.

Thanks for the input Stan! Tj

Uh, well, umm, I'll most definitely pass on that considering I just did that

2 years ago.

Btw, what's that single wire that activates remote modules and control panels as soon as the driver turns on the radio called?

LOL

Same thing it was called two years ago when lame brain brought it up the first time.

Indeed.

still waiting for warman to tell me i hear the hutterites in slave lake like disco

hurc ast

Sadly, you have to pull the instrument panel. It looks pretty daunting, as you are removing a large chunk of your car, but it isn't all that hard. Some will tell you to loosen the inst. panel and move it slightly, but at this point you are 20 minutes away from getting it completely out of your way. The very first thing I recommend is getting the correct Ford shop manual. Chiltons or Haynes won't cut it for details. Here's the basics:

1. Have the refrigerant in the AC recovered. Drain the coolant. Disconnect the heater\AC hoses and plug the heater core tubes tubes.
2. If I'm working on my car (as opposed to flat rate) I usually pull the seat(s) to get it out of the way (about 5 minutes each). Remove the kick panel trim, A-pillar trim, and center console (if equipped).

3 Lower the steering column onto the seat (Or remove it completely)disconnet wiring from the right side of the panel, connectors are in the right kick panel. Do the same on the left side. Disconnect wiring and vacuum lines from the inst. panel to the heater box. 4Remove the inst panel mounting screws across the top (usually 4, near the defrost ducts). 5.Check for an inst. panel to firewall brace near the middle of the panel, disconnect it. 6.Remove the 2 bolts holding the bottom corners of the intrument panel. Remove the panel from the car.

1. Remove the heater\AC box, split the case,, and replace the core.
2. Reassemble.

Just follow the steps in the manual. It looks like a lot of steps, but many of them are one or two screws and take less than 30 seconds. I've done a lot of these and can do it in about 4 hours. Set aside a Saturday and a Sunday, get a friend to help and hand you tools, etc. Have a good supply of your favorite beverage handy and have fun. Tom

If you look back at an earlier post, I specifically told you that I don't work on entertainment systems much..... thusly, any wire called audio system on bears little meaning or use to me.

You, however, are above answering questions???? What is minimum cranking ICP and what would I work on to read it? I'm sure you know the answer but you are too good to answer it, right?

completely)disconnet wiring

defrost ducts).

disconnect it.

Tom, you make it sound sooooo simple! ;-)

Actually with familiarity does come simplicity. Like you with this vehicle, give me a Mitsu and it would be a job...but not a chore. I can vision me now trying to locate all those hidden fasteners and choosing the correct metric equivalents. Still, this will be made easier now that you guys have given me more guidance and assurance as to what "must" come out to facilitate the R/R.

Thank again! Tj

Sounds like you gave some knowledge (at least which end of a screwdriver to hold;) ). Approach it with patience and care and it won't be an unpleasant experience.

15mm, 13mm, 8mm, 6mm, (and I'll bet one 5.5mm Let me know where you find it).Take the time to clean inside the case and flush the exterior of the evaporator with bleach water. Go to your local Home Depot, Lowes, etc and get a roll of that adhesive backed foam used as weatherstripping. Theres some foam seals that tend to deteriorate. Tom

lmfao hey warman like i care about injection cvontrol pressure

lmfao better do that

100 times lmfao NEXT

hurc ast

This post says "I work at the Circuit City Road Shop, so I don't need to know anything" all over it... One step above Wal-Mart oil changer.

Now sir, what exactly is "Injection Control Pressure"? Enlighten me.

JS

PS - the only ICP I know of is the Insane Clown Posse. They *suck*

I did the heater core replacement job on my 85 T-Bird which is darn close to the 86. It was a cold Janurary in New York. I did it nights in my unheated garage after work. It was probably 1992 or 1993. The real Ford Shop Manual helps alot. You have alot of good suggestions before my entry here. My two cents follows.

Keep track of what nuts and bolts and sheet metal screws go where.

Use the best quality replacement heater core you can get your hands on. You don't want to do this job twice.

Once you take care of the A/C issues you want to disconnect the battery.

Your car is not new. You are going pretty deep into the electronics and heating ductwork. You are not on the clock being paid by the hour. Look for other potential troubles to fix while you are down there this deep like cracked vacuum hoses, falling apart foam seals on ductwork, rusty control cables, worn insulation on electrical wires, maybe even water leaks.

Pull the instrument cluster and replace the halogen lamps used for cluster illumination and the instrument panel voltage regulator that is tacked onto the back of the cluster.

Be careful putting it all back together. Easy to pinch a wire, hose. or something else that will be a pain to figure out.

Appreciate the additional info Steve. There's no substitute for acquiring as much insight as possible from first hand knowledge holders. Lot of good points and reminders there! I'm two states down from you so it's still a bit nippy here too. Unfortunately I have a frame-off resto in progress in the garage so when I get to working on my mom's T-bird it will most likely be outside, brrrrrrrrrr!

Best Regards, Tj

you must be the idm

idiot dum mechanic

lmfao

U GO GIRL get powerstroked

hurc ast

lmfao its not that hard of job go fot it

hurc ast

it).Take the time

Great! Should have all the foreseen bases covered. Appreciate all the advice Tom.

Best Regards, Tj

Actually, Jacob... the HEUI injected diesel is a fascinating (and complex) read... ping me off line if you'd like an overview of the system.

After all the hoopla over the "new" 6.0 diesel, I understand we are going to see something new circa 2007.....

Bravo Steve, excellent addendum. If the OP prints these replies out and waves them over his car, that heater core may just jump right in there;)