How much Battery drain is normal ?

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too bad my news server stinks... I dont have copies of all the posts that are part of this thread...
Im wondering did the original person who asked the question ever get
anywhere?
One thing i wanted to say is the equipment I work on is by no means throw away. Each control unit costs our customer over 10K the boards are replacable but also repairable.
Oh well... it was a fun run we had,
Ken
wrote:

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Your a god i wish i can be just like you...
I admitted my wrong, and yet you have to rub it in like some sort of preschool kid.

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The normal range is 12.60 to 12.75 on a fully charged battery that is stable. With a key off drain, which every car will have the voltage can be seen as low as 12.55. 12.50 on a stable battery is a in a low state of charge, this is especially true if the vehicle has been in use, which the overwhelming majority are. Possible reasons? Driving time not long enough to bring the battery to a full state of charge after a cold start. Battery cable terminals loose or corroded. A higher than normal ignition key off drain exists. Excessive starter motor draw. Defective or old battery. High resistance in the chassis ground circuit. High resistance in the charging system (+) power side.
That is only a few examples.

Although similar devices, a capacitor is not a battery, so it will not function as one. Real bad analogy.

If the plates are shot, and some one changed the electrolyte, the OCV will still show up as a red flag. The load test will confirm, so will the bounce back voltage. No matter how you look at it, a bad battery is very easy to find, no ned to wait 6 days.

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This just shows the world that you know nothing, college boy or not. The maximum voltage you could ever get on car electric's (other than spark voltage) is 15!! What's this 480V??? In my career, I was an electronics and software engineer for 10 years, and have been a quality assurance engineer for the last 15 years dealing with military electronics, and have used that knowledge to sort many electrical problems with a series of old cars that I have owned.
And in case you didn't know, and clearly you don't, DVMs measure current by measuring the voltage across a shunt resistor!! The shunt resistor is built in the meter. You change the scale of the current measurement by changing the value of the shunt resistor.
Seems to me that this is not tips for the news group but a personal argument between Thomas and Ken, neither knowing what they are talking about.
Ken, are you listening? The input resistance of the car with the battery disconnected is irrelevant and any conclusions drawn from any measurements taken from it are erroneous for reasons already stated.
I'll think that I will bug out at this point. Over to you guys!
Richard

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The 480V was to prove a point... they said to measure resistance of a live circuit... you cant. Unless you do calculated resistance.

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<snip>

I can tell you with 100% certainty that in *all* cases such as this, the only piece of test equipment needed is your nose. You WILL smell the smoke from the melting insulation.
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says...

This is the newer, small Cougar, correct? If so, check out www.contour.org. Try the forums, as there are many knowledgeable people there. The Cougar is just a 2-door version of the Contour/Mystique/Mondeo.
There is also www.newcougar.org
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Also forgot........... lights will dim slightly when engine is a at redline. Is this a regulator or alternator problem, and could it be part of the battery drain problem ? Thanks for all the help

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heres a test for you... disconnect the "charged" battery from the car and let it sit 6 days.. then start the car with the battery after reconnecting it... if the battery wont crank the car well.. then its a battery problem.. if it does then its a car problem...
this can also be done by checking the input resistance of the car... but forget that.. lets keep it simple...
Ken

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light stays on in the trunk or glove box when shut?

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Would it not be better to check the OCV and SG to find if the battery is good or not?

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Look very closely at your battery cables! Ford products are very prone to corrosion INSIDE the terminal itself, not visible, where the cable connects to the terminal. This presents a high resistance to the charging voltage and may prevent the battery from receiving a full charge. Eventually a vehicle with this problem will not start. Movement of the cable while cranking sometimes will loosen this corrosion and allow the vehicle to start. Replacement of the positive cable is a quick and inexpensive method to eliminate this as a possible cause of your problem. Replacement of the negative cable is a little more involved, but normally the negative cable "outlasts" the positive cable by several years. Good Luck!
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I`ve once seen a car have the same problem and could not figure out what was causing it to drain battery . come to find out like 2 months later we did figure it out!!! the car was parked on an inclined driveway. and the hood light was a merc switch. so car parked uphill in the driveway made the light come on which killed the battery. car was in flat level bay . there was NO problem.

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That had to be a hell of a hill.

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yes it was :)

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An drive way that has enough a incline to turn on the mercury switch? Did the owner need lanyards to keep from falling into the street?

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seriously the incline is like 70 to 80 deg. car would sometime bottom out . it is a driveway between to close houses to get to the basement apt. the road is a hill to start with the an old 3 story house in town.

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10 to 20 degrees below a 90? Did they have to winch the car up the drive?

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