How to remove water pump hoses?

Iam installing a new water pump for my Ford Escort LX 1.9L. My (biggest one I get hold of in Home depot)channel lock wrench is not holding the big hose clip properly. Also the smaller hose (clip
loosened and pulled back) is not coming off the pump end. Looks like its bonded by heat and pressure or by glue. What is the best way to remove the hoses from pump end?
I hate to damage those good hoses (if they are bonded with water pump are they still good hoses?) and also trying to avoid the trouble in fixing the other 2 ends of the hoses to firewall & radiator.
Appreciate any help.
Sam
Note: Even in my desperate need to remove the hose, I sprayed WD40 on the hoses and no use.
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sams opined in

Normal problem.
My usual method is to work the clamps back off the nipples, work a blunt screwdriver under end of hose while twisting and pushing back.
If the hose splits or tears while doing this it needs replaced anyway.
If you want to avoid that in future, use very thin film of silicone grease, NOT petroleum type, on connection.
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grease,
I agree. What year? Getting a screw-driver under the hose where it connects to the pump probably won't be easy.
Buy a new hose and don't worry about being nice to the old hose. Twist it, cut it, burn it (kidding!).
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When you do get them off, get hose clamps that aren't spring steel. Get the ones that have the snail screw on them..
-Bruce

connects
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They make special pliers for spring type clamps, if you can't get the big one off by wrestling with it, maybe you can borrow the correct tool or pick up a cheap one someplace like Harbor Freight. You should always replace the hoses as a matter of course. You want to go through this again for a lousy hose? I usually slit them parallel to the nipple in several places with a utility knife, makes removal much easier. And as others have said, DEFINITELY go with the screw type clamps. .
Dan

blunt
it,
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pick
the
lousy
Screw-type clamps allow leaks don't they? Seriously, I thought the reason the industry went to spring-type clamps is that the spring-type clamps can expand & contract as the engine heats up/cools down. Screw-type clamps can't do that.
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big
a
Yes, that's exactly why we're is recommending them, because they'll leak.
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big
a
They don't want any screwing at the factory - spring clamps are quick. There are only three reasons the factory ever makes changes. Faster, cheaper, federal mandate. Sometimes they try to think up ways to befuddle the shadetree, so you just have to take it to a dealer,
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|
| |> > They make special pliers for spring type clamps, if you can't get the |big |> > one off by wrestling with it, maybe you can borrow the correct tool or |> pick |> > up a cheap one someplace like Harbor Freight. You should always replace |> the |> > hoses as a matter of course. You want to go through this again for a |> lousy |> > hose? I usually slit them parallel to the nipple in several places with |a |> > utility knife, makes removal much easier. And as others have said, |> > DEFINITELY go with the screw type clamps. . |> > |> > Dan |> |> Screw-type clamps allow leaks don't they? Seriously, I thought the reason |> the industry went to spring-type clamps is that the spring-type clamps can |> expand & contract as the engine heats up/cools down. Screw-type clamps |> can't do that.
The hose between the clamp band and the water pump neck will handle all the expansion neccessary. You can re-use the spring clamps sometimes, but I clean & dry the mating surfaces and use Hylomar. Rex in Fort Worth
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Truer words were never spoken! Thanx for the post, George.
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Bob-I haven't had much problem with the screw clamps, I do think people have a tendancy to overtighten them, which can definately cause leaks. I think manufacturers use the spring type mainly because they are cheaper & easier/quicker to install.
Dan

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"Bob M." wrote

I think you are right, Bob....but often people resist change. I work on many vehicles that have a combination of screw clamps and spring clamps and the spring clamps almost never leak, but the screw clamps can be guaranteed to leak eventually. I suspect the reason for the screw clamps on these vehicles is the location of the clamp. It would be almost impossible to release the tension if they were spring clamps because of their location. So in this case, there are advantages when you have to remove the hose. But spring clamps are definitely superior as they can continue to maintain pressure on the hose even if it goes soft or begins to squeeze out under the clamp.
If you get the correct tool for the spring clamps, they are a breeze to work on in almost any situation or location.
Ian
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The spring clamps are used because they have an even clamping force around the hose. As long as you use the correct tool for removing and reinstall the life is indefinite. No worries of broken teeth due to over tightening, or leaks because of not tightening enough. Cool down leaks are eliminated as well.

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Wow. I don't recall ever having any trouble from a screw-type clamp.
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"Clem" wrote

So, you work on cars for a living?
Ian
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Just buy the tool, KD is a brand name of them about 20$ at your local parts store.

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Thank you for all the support. Finally the hose came off nicely tks to the blunt screw driver tips. The hose looks really good. No softness or cracks to be found. But surely the clamps need to be changed, I think they lost their tension. I will change them to screw type clamps.
Thank you again for all the wonderful tips.
Sam.

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