I'm back and it's still sitting in my garage...

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Read the thread. It cranks. It makes spark. It runs on quik start. It IS NOT the solenoid. You can safely make book on it..

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clare at snyder.on.ca wrote:

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He has full fuel pressure, so although he MAY have a fuelmp problem it is NOT causing his no start problem.
You can take that to the bank.

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Michael,
When you said...

You were referring to a PCM, right?
Thanks!
Joe
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On Dec 7, 9:13 pm, Bruce L. Bergman

No pulse, but 12V on one side and 0V on the other side.

Pressure is 40 psi and it holds well; although I have not yet done a flow test yet.

Given the lack of pulse and voltage readings above, any suggestions?
Thanks!
Joe
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Michael,
When you said...

You meant the PCM, right?
Thanks!
Joe
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Check for any corroded conections near the battery (acid fumes). If there are any plugs near the battery open them to have a look. I remember a Ford of some kind where they put the main ground for the ECM right next to the battery and it would corrode inside the plug. Couldn't see it without unplugging it.
You really could check just one injector with the noid light. Not likley some would fire but not others.

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The noid light did not flash...
I think I see light at the end of the tunnel...
or is that just some lsd molecules jarred lose?
Joe
... I see myself driving soon!
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Does it have 12 volts to the injectors?
have you checked fuses?
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I checked one of the injector connectors and had 12V on one side and 0V on the other.
Specifically which fuses should I check?
Thanks!
Joe
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wrote:

on one side. You should always check ALL the fuses.
Try pulling out the spout connector. (It's been a while but I think it will be a yellow wire from the dist. could be a little shorting block in a connector or a in line type connector,the one to check timing with) with this unplugged see if it runs. If it does, IIRC it points to the module being bad (or a bad connection of coarse) ps. checking for a pulse with a regular 12v test light can be tough because the pulse is so fast. It is easier on sequencial FI but I really don't know off hand what yours is. If your not using a noid light look VERY closely at the bulb when cranking. I know there is at least one if not more Ford experts on alt.autos.ford I would start over with:
1.year, make, model 2.engine size, FI type 3.cranks but won't start 4.has spark (will run on starting fluid) 5.has fuel pressure (40 psi) 6.has no injector pulse. 7does the check engine light seem to work correctly? (on bright with key on, goes out after a few seconds) post that..... 8.checked all the freakin fuses with a test light(?) ping Jim Warman (I think he is a Ford tech on alt.autos.ford
Your post has turned into a cluster fuck, too many people replying without knowing the full story....
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On Dec 7, 6:06 pm, snipped-for-privacy@mymail.com wrote:

John,
If my car won't start, how would I check the timing?
Joe
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Joe wrote:

I don't mean to be rude but if you don't know how to check the timing then you need to take the car to a garage and let them figure this out. Right now you are just playing "whack a mole".
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Michael,
Can you check the timing on your car when it won't start???
You must be friggin' super-mechanic.
Joe
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wrote:

You really need to take it to a real mechanic Joe. Here I'll give you a clue, because you Joe, are obviously NOT even a friggin half-assed-mechanic. If you were going to take that distributor out and install a new distributor, HOW THE HELL would you set the initial ignition timing before you started the engine?
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Who said ANYTHING about installing a NEW distributor?
Sure, I removed my old distributor, in order to check the TFI module, but I first put the no. 1 piston on top dead center, marked the position of the no. 1 tower, marked the position of the rotor, and marked the distributor body and the block so it would all go back in exactly the way it came out.
If I did anything wrong when removing the distributor or if I missed something when removing the distributor, please, please, please let me know.
That said, about 8 years ago, I did advance the timing some to get a few more hp, but when I replaced my distributor because of a crack in it, I also returned the timing to the OEM spec to get a little better gas mileage. I believe I followed the exact same procedure described above without any problems.
Again, if I did anything wrong or if I overlooked anything when removing and replacing the distributor, I would appreciate knowing what it was.
Here, I have 40 psi at the Schrader, according to my spark tester, I am getting a spark, the TFI module tests ok, well at least all of the resistances are within spec, I assume this means the TFI module is ok, and my noid light tester confirms that I am not getting any power to the injectors. So...
Where am I? Well, I am trying to figure out which relay or fuse or connector or unit/module, could be the culprit regarding the injectors getting no signal. I swapped my fuel pump relay and WOT cut-off relay; that did not help. Now, I think, I need to check the connection to ground for the injectors and possibly the condition of the PCM and ECM, Would you agree, or do you think I should be looking at something else? (The wiring diagrams do not indicate any fuses between the PCM and the injectors, so I am at a loss at where else to look for a possible fuse problem... no, let me take that back, fuse link D sits "behind" the PCM, so that is on my list of things to find and check on.)
If you have any helpful suggestions or constructive advice, I would be delighted to here it, but I haven't needed a mechanic to do my tune- ups, brake and clutch jobs, to replace my clutch cable and quadrant, to replace the OEM air filter with a K&N system, to replace and update my A/C (except for evacuating the freon), to replace my shocks and struts, or to fix my convertible top, and I will be damned if 2 naysayers are going to --- I forgot, to replace some balls and joints and some other armature thing that escapes me right now --- and I will be damned if 2 naysayers are going to convince me --- I also forgot, to replace my alternator, thermostat and water pump --- and I will be damned if 2 naysayers are going to convince me I can not figure my way through this! So, like I say to my 9 year old son, if you do not have anything nice to say, keep your FCKNG mouth shut... OK, OK, when speaking to my 9 year old, I end with, ... then say nothing, but I think you get my point, uh?
Thanks in advance for your helpful advice or for saying nothing.
Joe
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wrote:

distributor, or distributor cap ?

what did you set it to? It won't save any gas milage.

all this dosen't matter because you said it was running OK a week ago.
Your story is morfing.

but your car ran fine a week or so ago, right? swap out computer, right?

take it to a shop, you are getting too emotional with your old bucket of bolts that won't start now because it *Hates* you. (unless you find the problem)
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Joe wrote:

First, the timing doesn't have to be perfect to spec in order for the engine to run. Second, the posts you have made here show you have little knowledge about Fox Mustangs. Third, tell me how you would set the timing if you installed a new distributor? If the timing is off so far that the car won't start then either you loosened the distributor, gave it a good twist and/or failed to tighten it down or there is a catastrophic failure in the distributor, timing chain/gears and/or the cam drive gear. I would guess that you aren't qualified to perform any of these potential repairs or even make an accurate diagnosis.
Do the damn car, and us, a favor and take to it a qualified mechanic. None of us here have a psychic ability to guide you in how to fix it. Or just let the car sit in your garage but don't whine to us about it.
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Michael,
As you already know, you were right about the timing and I was wrong.
Sorry for my smart-ass comment.
... and thanks for your previous help.
Joe
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Joe wrote:

Sorry if I was rude. I wasn't trying to be. Sometimes there just comes a point where having a mechanic involved makes sense to get the problem fixed. Many times this route is less expensive since you won't waste money on buying parts that were never needed in the first place. There are so many potential causes of your problem that we may not be able to point you to the right one. We have guided you to the ones that are obvious and easy to diagnose and it looks like there is something wrong that needs a professional to pinpoint it.
As cars get more complicated through the use of electronics it is harder to diagnose problems. While the Fox Mustang has a lot of old school design employed it does have a certain level of electronic control that makes diagnosis of some repairs very difficult without more sophisticated equipment or in depth knowledge of the car's systems. My comments were only meant to give you good advice based on my own personal experienced of owning a Fox Mustang continuously since 1987 and from heavily modifying it over the years.
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