I'M FREEZING !!!!

99 taurus. 3.0 OHV. Very little heat inside car.Put in a flush tee,took
opposite end of hose off heater core and flushed water through..had good flow..replaced themostat,radiator cap, and the water pump..I,d say
heat works 10% better. What is the next step? The air is not very powerful blowing out of the vents,defrost,or heat vents...also the hose
going into the heater core is very hot but the outlet hose is barely warm,is it possible that the heater core is still plugged even though I
have good flow from the inlet to the outlet ???
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is it possible that the heater core is still plugged even though I

yep.. it's not how much can get through.. it's how many paths it has. think about that little hole in your kitchen faucet.. shower head restrictor, etc.
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Since your water pressure is likely to be in the neighbourhood of 60 PSI or better, enough water can be forced through the heater core to look very impressive. If flushing the core *both ways* hasn't improved the condition, it is very likely that it will need replacement.
HTH

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doesnt sound right.
check the coolant routing and how the core nipples are oriented.
If they are vertical, and coolant flow from engine is to top, then air bubble can collect in the top of core and not get out.
top nipple should trace to water pump
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On Wed, 16 Nov 2005 14:51:14 GMT, Backyard Mechanic

In my 96 mustang 3.8.. loosing my heat is the FIRST indication I'm low on coolant in the block.. doesn't take much of a bubble in there..
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I
It's always been that way on the later fords I've had... happens before you see erratic temp gauge.
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How do I get the air bubble out ??
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first make sure the top nipple traces to the water pump
second install a flush T in that line, highest point possible.. but close to heater as possible.
Remember the bubble wants to go UP
You are going to have to burp this several times, in probably several sessions as bubbles in the block migrate to heater
If the bubbles are actually able to migrate, once the thermostat opens they should go to the radiator and, eventually, out the cap to the degas bottle... which should be kept about half full.
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hey dude forget all the things u read,if u tryedit.check your so called blend door, it will get stuck and cause u not to have the heat u want. i can't tell u where it is but it's expensive to get fixed,unless u do it yourself.then it just takes time no parts. about a hundred bucks to get it done. at shop. ford has this problem for a long time alot of people have complained to ford motor co.but to no avail. good luck.
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Just take off the radiator cap when its cold and fill it to about a couple inches from the top. Fill the overflow tank to its normal level. Leave the cap off. Then start the car and let it heat up. As the coolant starts to rise up and almost out of the radiator, quickly put the cap back on. The let the car cool off and open the radiator and check if its full. Top off the overflow tank too. You might have to do this a couple of times. Works for me. Fred

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Shouldn't the output heater hose feel really hot after the car is warmed up really well with the heat turned on, even if the blend door is the problem? I'll test that out on my 2000 Taurus (same engine and heat works ok).
Your worst fate is to have all the above problems (partially clogged heater core with an air bubble and malfunctioning blend door) at the same time. It would be good to actually measure the thermostat housing temperature with an infrared thermometer, and to recheck the water pump part number is correct.
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