Ignition beeper problem

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On my 95 Escort, when I take out the key and with lights off, the beeper still sounds when the door is opened. Three independent ASE service places
have worked on it and two different Ford dealers have replaced the ignition switch. Each time it is fixed for about two or three days and then it starts beeping again when it shouldn't be beeping. The last time I took it back to the Ford dealer after they put in a new ignition switch, they sprayed the new switch with graphite which of course did nothing to solve the problem. I would think it shouldn't be rocket science for a Ford dealer or ASE service center to replace an ignition switch correctly. I now have over $600 into a stupid switch. Does Ford have any qualified technicians who know how to replace an ignition switch?
Bob
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Are you SURE it was the ignition switch they replaced?
Interesting if that's the case...
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Well, maybe none of them replaced anything, but I have two receipts from Ford dealers that indicate "ignition switch replacement" and I was billed for a new switch and labor each time. I'll agree, a receipt wouldn't necessarily mean any work was actually done, which may be the reason it still doesn't work right. It has been my experience that dealers aren't any more honest than the ASE mechanics I've been to. It's a nasty world out there.
Bob
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Well... my POINT is that symptom/warning would have nothing to do with what we normally consider the "ignition switch". have you jiggled/turned the key bezel to see if the chiming stopped?

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Yep, push in on the ignition switch and it'll stop beeping but only while I'm pressing against it. Sometimes I can push in on the switch and remove the key very slowly and have it not beep for about 10 seconds or so, but then it moves out a little less than an eighth of an inch and the beeper starts. Seems to be spring loaded. Another mechanic who hasn't worked on it said they probably didn't put the ground wire in correctly and it's shorting to the case. He said it's tricky. Perhaps, but for $200 isn't this what Ford mechanics are trained to do?
Bob
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first, the chime has nothing to do with the ignition switch. the chime is part of the key cylinder assembly. if the chime does not stop when the key is removed, the plunger in the key cylinder needs to be adjusted.
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A total of 5 mechanics have looked at and listened to this problem, charged me for switch replacement and none of them could adjust a plunger. Obviously I've been cheated. The question now is, who knows how to adjust the plunger? Should I have been going to a locksmith instead of to a Ford mechanic?
Bob
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Maybe you should stick with 1 dealer/tech instead 5 different ones that start with the same basic check and replace the obvious.
If you are not satisfied with your repair, bring it back, talk to a manager, thats why you have warranty on the repair.
And take my word for it, if you have a attitude like your showing here, do you think they will go the extra mile to help you with YOUR problem
Haveyou ever diagnosed a intermittent problem, like a wire rubbing to ground and it stops doing it after the first speed bump.
Its not always that easy, be patient and return the car.

is
key
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You make too many assumptions without knowing anything about the situation. The last time I attempted to have it repaired, I was on a trip 600 miles from here. The timing belt let go so I told the Ford dealer to fix the chime while he had the car in there for the timing belt. Now you expect me to drive 600 miles back there for service. I don't think so. The dealer before that was 1000 miles from here, two days before the company relocated me and now you say I should drive 1000 miles for service and you say I have an attitude because I won't drive halfway across the country to return to their service department. If you don't know the facts you shouldn't offer useless advice.
Bob

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You can have your warranty done @ ANY dealer within ( IIRC)12 months or 12k

do
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Is this something that I could easily adjust? I'm handy and have done work on cars for years but not familiar with the key cylinder/switch assembly.
Bob

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i am not sure about how to do it on your car, but on all the ones i have done, you need to remove the steering wheel to access the area that the key in tumbler switch is located.
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OK, so a mechanic is best. I'd bet none of the repair people ever removed the steering wheel. With the air bag and all, I don't want to mess with it myself. Thanks, Bob
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??????
I dont think so. You have to remove some secured housings, IIRC, which needs more than common tools. But not necessarily the wheel.
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well all of the ones i have done were on ford trucks and vans, chevy trucks, and only 3 chevy cars. i am not saure on how to do ford cars.
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This sounds more like a failure of the chime switch which used to be a part of the ignition tumbler cylinder assembly the key goes in instead of the actual ignition switch. Now, I admit I haven't looked inside a steering column for a few years, but the actual ignition switch used to be a bit farther down the column and was operated by a lever that was connected to the key assembly. Different wires for the chime thingie.
Bob, have you tried different keys? Maybe the key is loose enough in the lock cylinder to allow the chime to switch on (yep, it's a long shot...)
Good Luck!
PoD
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Hey, now there's an idea and it might be cheap. I'm going to the local locksmith and have him cut a key that's a little longer on the end and see what happens. thanks.
Bob
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Oh, wait a minute. No that won't work, it chimes with the key out so it doesn't matter if the key is worn or not because the key isn't in the lock.
Bob
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The last time I needed a new tumbler, my local parts discount place had them. It was a fairly quick replacement, I just had to remove the steering column cover - a couple of screws. It probably wouldn't hurt to disconnect the battery and wait a bit - no sense tickling an air bag, even tho you shouldn't be close to it.
I hope it works!
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RobertM wrote:

Has anybody considered this might be a fault of the Generic Electronic Module? I'm a little late coming into the thread.
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