Ignition lock cylinder removal

I'm having trouble removing the lock cylinder on a 92 mercury sable. I know that the key is supposed to be in the run position in order to remove the lock, but therein lies the problem. The whole reason that
I'm replacing the lock is that the key no longer works. I've tried drilling out the retaining pin, but it must be hardened. I'm not having any luck with that. Any other tips?
Thanks
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Jon wrote:

It's really easy. You will NOT be able to drill the pin. It's hardened steel and floats free in the hole. Take a big screwdriver and pry off the outer collar of the cylinder, the part with the "wings". Tap the screwdriver firmly into the key slot and force it to the "Run" position, depress the pin and remove the cylinder. This will destroy the cylinder but won't hurt the column. If the screwdriver doesn't have wrench flats near the handle (Snap-On, Mac, etc) you may have to clamp vise grips around the shaft to turn it. Push inward on the screwdriver while turning to keep it from camming out of the slot. There is a tool to do just this called a "Ford Bypass Tool" but the last time I looked for it I couldn't locate one. They are only available to locksmiths, repo companies, law enforcement, etc.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
I had already thought of that, and broke a screwdriver that way. It occurs to me now that maybe the wheel is turned slightly and I need to take the pressure off it. Is this a possibility?
Thanks for your response.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Jon wrote:

Possibly, but you more likely used a screwdriver that was too small or of poor quality. The tip needs to be about 1/2" or wider. Go to your local Sears and get the widest tip driver they have. It'll cost $10-20 but a locksmith will charge lots more. If you damage the upper column housing trying to drill it out, the part is $130 by itself.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Well, I didn't have any luck with the big screwdriver. It ended up deforming the keyway instead of turning the cylinder.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Jon wrote:

I've used that trick on dozens of Ford lock cylinders. I'm sorry it didn't work. I wonder if you may have driven the pin in far enough to jam the cylinder in the barrel? You can go at the cylinder with a drill and chisel to remove it. It's a real hassle and you have to be careful not to damage the housing.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Wed, 01 Mar 2006 16:40:30 -0500, Tom Adkins

pound it on further ya foctard h u r c a s t
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
I'm just now getting around posting the results of last weekend's work. I bought a 1/2" drill bit and drilled into the cylinder some more. Within 2 minutes, I had the cylinder (what remained of it) turning and was able to depress the retainer pin. Thanks for the help.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

--
Spike
1965 Ford Mustang Fastback 2+2, Vintage Burgundy
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Motorsforum.com is a website by car enthusiasts for car enthusiasts. It is not affiliated with any of the car or spare part manufacturers or car dealers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.