Lost Thread: 94 Taurus 3.8 BAP Sensor

where is my bap sensor?!?! on the firewall? i have a pic of it
http://www.smpcorp.com/buyersguide/images/AS13.jpg
and i still cannot find it. i must be having a polish moment!
<looks at firewall and shrugs>
whats that sensor on the drivers side by the egr/fpr with two hoses coming out of it and a connector?
recap car runs fine cold. when it gets to normal operating temp it craps out after a few minutes. i cannot get it to rev past 2500 rpm without it backfiring/crapping out. when it craps out on me it is very hard to start. sometimes it doesnt want to start at all, but after a cooling off period it starts right up. i disconnected the exhaust system and still the same (so while it was off i blew it out with a shop vac). all the plugs looked normal, but i changed them anyway. i changed the iac sensor, and switched fuel pressure regulator with one from a crown vic. i think the cat is a bit abnormally hot. i checked the vacuum with a gauge and it was normal at idle. i will pop the codes later, and must check timing. oh yeah, i dunno if its just me but it seemed to run a bit better with an o2 sensor taken out of its housing. the rack and power steering pump is shot. can this have anything to do with it. i also hear a lil pinging when i shut the engine off, but i cannot remember if it always did it or not.
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can an egr do this? when it pings i can feel a vibration coming from the egr valve.
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Chooch wrote:

What is your fuel pressure reading?
Rob
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The Barometric sensor is in and part of the ECM. Your symptoms sound like a fuel delivery problem like low fuel pressure. Suspect part, fuel pump.

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i coded it and its 221 for the tps. didnt test sensor yet. waiting for meter! also while looking around i have a lot of white splatter powder around distributor. water pump leaking from weep hole?
didnt test fuel pressure. im finally employed again, and can afford a gauge. yay! all i know it whines and when i press the valve it shoots all over the place.
meter is here!

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yay! all fixed. i dunno if i wiggled something, cleaned something, or ran the tank too low giving me nasty gas in the lines, but it runs like a charm. thanks to all.
=)
<crosses fingers>
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the car ran fine last night. threw gas in it. drove it around and it was back to normal. moms jumped into the car in the morning, drove it to work and it acted up again (see recap at bottom of post). the drive is 10 - 15 minutes. would a fuel pump all of a sudden decide to work and then crap out? fuel filter was changed. when the taurus was running the check engine light came on again. no hard codes, but a memory code 172 for o2 sensor lean. i cut out the muffler cause it was rotted.
http://www.diynet.com/diy/cda/article_print/0,1983,DIY_13679_2276264_ARTICLE-DETAIL-PRINT,00.html
i found this and ill give it a whirl. im not sure if a connector is bad or a sensor is going, because i slapped a couple of sensors. i also checked the timing and it's steady. would removing that plastic thingy do something to a sensor/ecm? i dunno what it is cause i cannot see any markings. i gotta clean it!
i also added some stp super concentrated fuel injector cleaner (around half of a bottle for around a half tank of gas). would this recreate the problem?
ugh i should just buy a damn gauge.
recap car runs fine cold. when it gets to normal operating temp it craps out after a few minutes. i cannot get it to rev past 2500 rpm without it backfiring/crapping out. when it craps out on me it is very hard to start. sometimes it doesnt want to start at all, but after a cooling off period it starts right up. i disconnected the exhaust system and still the same (so while it was off i blew it out with a shop vac). all the plugs looked normal, but i changed them anyway. i changed the iac sensor, and switched fuel pressure regulator with one from a crown vic. i checked the vacuum with a gauge and it was normal at idle.
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Chooch wrote:

http://www.diynet.com/diy/cda/article_print/0,1983,DIY_13679_2276264_ARTICLE-DETAIL-PRINT,00.html
What is your fuel pressure reading?
Rob
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Chooch wrote:

http://www.diynet.com/diy/cda/article_print/0,1983,DIY_13679_2276264_ARTICLE-DETAIL-PRINT,00.html
You are not going to get much help or sympathy from the group until you go out & buy a $30.00 fuel pressure gauge... how much is your effort time, & lost time, worth to you after going through all this? Everybody here is saying fuel pump, but it looks like you are trying to avoid the inevitable.
Rob
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On Tue, 21 Sep 2004 16:16:50 -0400, trainfan1

i understand, but when it was running fine and i threw the treatment in, it was just weird. i could use another tool in my box anyway! i'll update with more info.
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would a 94 even have a baro sensor? I thought the MAF took into account the density of the air entering the engine regardless of altitude and baro pressure? You may have a dirty MAF hot wire. Remove the 2 tamper proof torx screws and give the tiny and delicate coiled wire a spray with some brake and or contact cleaner pref alchol based so no residue is left behind.
HTH

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On Sun, 26 Sep 2004 22:28:22 GMT, "The Bathtub Admiral"

cool! i will try that. i read some post stating to clean it off with a qtip. im a brute, so a spray is ideal for me. i know the sensor is doing something though. i put a meter on it and sucked on one of the vacuum hoses and it moved. are the screws in there good? wd40? sensors scare me. the tps was a bitch to get off.
it is not the fuel pump. steady 30 at idle. disconnect the regulator and its a steady 40. any advise how i can eliminate fuel injectors?

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Chooch wrote:

Now try your fuel pressure at other than idle... at WOT bursts, if possible - see what happens!
Rob
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On Sun, 26 Sep 2004 20:02:16 -0400, trainfan1

great. ill try that tomorrow too. thanks for not getting sick of me!
i did this and it fluctuated a bit but nothing drastic. i wasnt paying close attention to the reading. wot will be possible cold, but i doubt itll be possible when it starts acting up.
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Chooch wrote:
wot will be possible cold, but

BUT... that's where you want to test it! Work the throttle from under the hood while it's acting up, with the gauge connected.
Rob
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On Sun, 26 Sep 2004 21:02:55 -0400, trainfan1

okay. playtime tomorrow. i dont want to wake up the neighbors again. i just have a silly question. i popped the cap, and the magnet/pickup whatever you want to call for the vane has play (side to side and back to back). is this normal? i replaced the distro a few years back, and i dont remember how loose it was or if it was loose at all.
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On Sun, 26 Sep 2004 21:02:55 -0400, trainfan1

i tested it today, and it just stays at 40 when it stutters. ignition on only sends it to around 20. it also holds the pressure for a good amount of time. also i dont think the injectors follow the stuttering. they sound crisp to me!
cleaning the maf didnt do the trick either. to the naked eye it looked spotless. the only sensor which looks crappy is the sensor near the egr valve. it has a bunch of crusty white gook where the two vacuum hoses go. it has a hi side and a ref side. <shrugs> so i took out my test light and cleaned it out a bit. one side was clogged, or i broke something.
coded it out again, and i got a 211 memory code for erratic pip.
temp sensor? coil? remanu distro going again? i changed the cap and rotor. there was a whole bunch of brown dust.
recap:
car idles fine, starts fine, and runs fine cold. as it gets to normal operating temperature after ten minutes or so, the chugging progressively gets worse until it stalls. it cannot hold an idle rev ~2500 rpm. new iac sensor. fuel pressure regulator operates, along with egr valve (i suck, it moves). plugs looked fine when i took em out after symptoms came about. changed fuel filter. dropped exhaust from exhaust manifolds. oil is dirty, but not milky creamy or whatnot. no funky exhaust fumes. if i turn the crank over via breaker bar the distro moves right along with it. i dunno what the timing is set at cause i cannot find the stinking pointer, but if i unplug that ip thingy its steady. it'll backfire if i rev it also. i also hear pinging in the intake when the engine stalls or i shut it off, but i think it always did this.

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The MAF only measures air velocity with a correction for temperature. The processor has either a barometer built into it or uses software to determine barometric pressure based on the signal from the MAF, engine speed and intake air temperature. In order to know the mass of a gas you must know the pressure behind it and it's velocity.

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YAY! Solved! Damn pickup in the distro was flapping all over the place! I had a feeling it wasnt supposed to do that. hehe NOW WHERES THE TDC MARK ON THE BALANCER!!!
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