Mustang overheating

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I just rebuilt my 302 with new bearings, rings, fuel, oil, water pumps, thermostat, cam, lifters, put a set of 289 hipo heads with stainless steel valves, edelbrock RPM series intake and Holley 600cfm
carb. Got the engine back in the car and fired it up and broke in the cam. The engine temp (100% water at that time) was normal. Chang the fluid to 50/50 mix and its still all good. Since then valves and timing was tuned in but now the trouble starts. I start the car up becasue there was a leak from the automatic transmision to check and add fluid as neccesary. After checking fluids i look at the emp guage and its pushing for "H" so i shut the car off and ponder. :? come back to the car the next day and start it and it still overheats. I go out and buy a new sending unit thinking mabey it went bad. no difference. the water pump and thermostat are new and everything seemed to work for a week but now??? Did i get a bad thermostat, water pump, or did my stock radiator finally kick the bucket? or my fan clutch pass on? and i hope that the $500 i just dropped on valves, springs and head cleanup wasnt for not. or that i have a cracked block. any suggestions and/or tests that i can run would be greatly appreciated.
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Did you put the thermostat in upside down?
82Mustang wrote:

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Things to check:
Did you bleed the air out of the cooling system? Head gaskets are marked "FRONT", were the head gaskets installed correctly? Do you have a good radiator cap? Is your water pump for the correct rotation?
Frank
in message

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"" wrote: > Did you put the thermostat in upside down? > > 82Mustang wrote: > > I just rebuilt my 302 with new bearings, rings, fuel, oil, > water > > pumps, thermostat, cam, lifters, put a set of 289 hipo heads > with > > stainless steel valves, edelbrock RPM series intake and > Holley 600cfm > > carb. Got the engine back in the car and fired it up and > broke in the > > cam. The engine temp (100% water at that time) was normal. > Chang the > > fluid to 50/50 mix and its still all good. Since then valves > and > > timing was tuned in but now the trouble starts. I start the > car up > > becasue there was a leak from the automatic transmision to > check and > > add fluid as neccesary. After checking fluids i look at the > emp guage > > and its pushing for "H" so i shut the car off and ponder. :? > come > > back to the car the next day and start it and it still > overheats. I go > > out and buy a new sending unit thinking mabey it went bad. > no > > difference. the water pump and thermostat are new and > everything > > seemed to work for a week but now??? Did i get a bad > thermostat, water > > pump, or did my stock radiator finally kick the bucket? or > my fan > > clutch pass on? and i hope that the $500 i just dropped on > valves, > > springs and head cleanup wasnt for not. or that i have a > cracked > > block. any suggestions and/or tests that i can run would be > greatly > > appreciated. > >
No the thermostat is in the correct way. I also can feel that the entire radiator is getting hot along with both uper and lower hoses.
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It sounds like you have done a good job so far... I would spend the $70 or so for an infared "point and shoot" thermometer. This way you will know for sure what your temps are at the radiator, t-stat housing, heads, ect. and you can use your trouble shooting abilities that much better.
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make sure you put the proper water pump on. there are two types, one for regular fan belts, and a reverse flow for motors with serpentine belts.also, with a serpentine belt system, make sure you have the belt installed correctly. if you put it on wrong, you will spin the pump reverse and overheat.

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Why spend the $70? Just take her to a local radiator shop and they will do it for free. I had a similar situtation with my 98 Mustang and it turned out to be a clogged radiator. Bitch ran fine on the highway but in rush hour traffic, she would heat up.
Good luck.
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"" wrote: > Why spend the $70? Just take her to a local radiator shop and > they will do > it for free. I had a similar situtation with my 98 Mustang and > it turned > out to be a clogged radiator. Bitch ran fine on the highway > but in rush > hour traffic, she would heat up. > > Good luck.
Is there any way to tell if the head gasket is on the wrong way? there is no smoke from the tailpipes and the oil is black as night. I do have a cam but the firing order didnt change. The carb is brand new from holley so could the adjustment screws on the side just need tinkering? I guess its possible to have the wrong water pump but would the heat still work if it was wrong? and the total timing is set to 36degress total. As for the radiator i flushed it out before i put it back into the car.
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the easiest way to tell if a head gasket is on wrong is to look at it before putting the head on. it will say top, and front

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"" wrote: > the easiest way to tell if a head gasket is on wrong is to > look at it before > putting the head on. it will say top, and front
> > > "" wrote: > > > Why spend the $70? Just take her to a local radiator > shop and > > > they will do > > > it for free. I had a similar situtation with my 98 > Mustang and > > > it turned > > > out to be a clogged radiator. Bitch ran fine on the > highway > > > but in rush > > > hour traffic, she would heat up. > > > > > > Good luck. > > > > Is there any way to tell if the head gasket is on the wrong > way? there > > is no smoke from the tailpipes and the oil is black as > night. I do > > have a cam but the firing order didn't change. The carb is > brand new > > from holley so could the adjustment screws on the side just > need > > tinkering? I guess its possible to have the wrong water pump > but would > > the heat still work if it was wrong? and the total timing is > set to > > 36degress total. As for the radiator i flushed it out before > i put it > > back into the car. > > > > -- > > Posted using the http://www.autoforumz.com interface, at author's request > > Articles individually checked for conformance to usenet > standards > > Topic URL: > http://www.autoforumz.com/Ford-Mecury-Mustang-overheating-ftopict126369.html > > Visit Topic URL to contact author (reg. req'd). Report > abuse: > http://www.autoforumz.com/eform.php?pa8010
thanx, you think i would know if it would be overheating if the heads werent on the car?
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82Mustang wrote:

running WAAAAAYYYY too rich with tha carb. you said 289 heads.... used ones i take it? did u have them pressure tested ? might be cracked.
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"82Mustang" wrote: > No the thermostat is in the correct way. I also can feel that > the entire radiator is getting hot along with both uper and > lower hoses.
i had a friend help whith the build up so i dont know about the head gasket, how can i bleed the air out of my system? The radiator cap is brand new (have tried both old and new caps-no difference) and i bought a serpentine water pump for the serpentine belt sysytem. Today i started it up and there is no smoke from the tail pipes. but when i revved it up there was a slight hesitation before it tached up (granted its a little wet out today, but the car shouldnt do that with the high compression ratio 9.5to1, cam and carb size) also it seemed like if i kept reving it-on off on off up to about 4000 rpm the temp guage would stay normal? but the neighbors are probably not too happy. The hoses didnt start to get hot until the needle was in the middle and on normal. But how/why was the car running at normal temp in the same conditions for about a week, and after adjusting the valves and timing did everything go bad.
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I was wondering if any other of your readers have had the same (or similar )problem with their insurance companies the way I have. in July of 2004 I was involved in a car accident (I was the driver) the accident was caused by the other person pulling out of a side road in front of me, whilst I was travelling at between 45 and 50 mph. along a 60mph road.
the same day i reported the matter to my insurance company (Norwich union direct) giving them the details of the other vehicle, drivers name/address/insurance company. I also gave them the name and contact details of the police officer that dealt with the accident. And told them that he has the details of the whitnesses.
i told them that the accident was caused by the other driver of the other vehicle.. and that i was just reporting the matter to them (my insurance company) as that is a part of the insurance contract as well as the law..
i also told them that i was going to claim through the other persons insurance and did not want to claim on mine. but they insisted that i claim through them (Norwich union direct) as i had fully comp.. This i ended up agreeing on. They had my vehicle accessed and put it down as a financial Wright off, and paid me 600+ this was less my excess of 120
Now the fun bit..
my insurance is up for renewal this month. and i have just found out that i have lost 2 years no claims bonus, Thus doubling my insurance costs this year from 319.99 to 613.89.. And increasing it next year and the next ect ect..
i phoned them up on this matter and asked them why i was being penalized on my no claims bonus, and was told it is because i put in a claim on my insurance. And they have not been able to recover the costs from the other persons insurance.
i asked them how i can get my no claims bonus back, since i was the innocent person in the accident, and was told that I have to do all i can to help them get their money back..!!! once they have their money back from the other persons insurance company then I will get my no claims bonus back.
i gave them all the information that i had..what more can i do??
Also the other company will not pay up because their person never told them of the accident.. (Remember I have given Norwich union direct the police officers name and contact details so why have they not got in contact with him?? As not reporting a accident to the insurance company is an offence)
I feel so angry over the matter that I have done everything by the law. Only to find that I am being punished for doing so and being innocent.
This matter has cost me more than the other person. The other person was taken to court for failing to stop at a junction and for having 3 bald tires on his car. He got a 30 pounds fine plus 35 court costs.. with no action being taken on the failing to stop at a junction
I have lost 120 excess around 300 this year on the cost of my insurance going up (not including the cost next year-but I have been told that it works out to about 45% on top of what it would normally cost me until I get back all of my no claims bonus..
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Control" of you vehicle. If the vehicle entering the road hit you in the side it would be a different matter. Sadly you hit him.
Bill
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realy?? so if you are traveling at around 45 , 50 mph and some one pulls out of a side road in front of you, and you are 40 feet from them. then you can be in control of your vehicle and stop before colliding with the other vehicle??
i dont think you drive, if you do then you know what you just said is rubbish, and you would also know that there is such a thing as a minimum stopping distance even in an emergency. also you can not allways avoid an accident by swerving. due to other traffic or members of the public on a pathway. of even a wall along the roadside
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at who hit whom.
Bill
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On Wed, 29 Jun 2005 00:29:49 GMT, "berkshire bill"

I've been in the exact situation as th OP, and that is not true. I was in an accident identical to the OPs and both of us had the same insurance company. My rates didn't budge.
In the US it's called "Failure to yield right-of-way", and it doesn't really matter who hit who where, at least not completely. One is expected to give up their right-of-way if it is nessisary to avoid an accident, but impossible means impossible. Basically what you're saying is that a person can put you in an impossible situation to navigate and you are to be held responsible for not being able to navigate it.....weird.
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wrong bill, they look at who was to blame, they admit that i was not to blame in any way. but their policy is that if you claim then you lose two years NCB (this actually works out to three years ncb as you loos a ncb when you go to reinsure) but if the other insurance company (prividing the other person is insured) pays them there costs, then you get the ncb back. in my case the other person never reported it to his insurance company, thus his insurance company say it never happened, even though the police were called, and i took pictures of the accident scene.
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I have 30 years law enforcement experience in the Detroit Michigan area.
Based on the events you describe, the other driver is responsible for causing the crash because he failed to yield to you. Any driver entering traffic from a cross road, public or private driveway, must yield to oncoming traffic. You must, however, be driving at or below the posted speed limit, exceeding the posted limit and one forfiets their right of way. Had you been driving over the posted speed limit, or driving too fast for the weather conditions, you would have been at fault.
What were the weather condition like a the time of the accident? The posted speed limit is a limit not to be exceeded during ideal traffic and weather conditions. One can be ticketed for driving at the posted speed limit in dark, rainy conditions. With the Pound Sterling cymbol in your post, I must guess that you live in the UK. Your traffic laws may be different than here in the States, but my description is basically the same throughout the US.
As far as to why your insurance rates increased, I do not have an answer for you.
Best of luck
Frank from Deeetroit.

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thanks!!!
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