Oil burn off at startup, Triton 4.6

What do you consider "Significant" ? Just a puff when the truck starts or a 30 second puff and is it white or black?

Gerald

It only last 3 to 5 seconds, but is quite dense. Within 10 seconds is wafting away down the street.

Lone Gunman

I suspect that this is condensed water. What color is it?

Jeff

If immediately after the start it is likely NOT water. Does it smell like oil? If so, oit's oil. It will in all likelihood be an exhaust valve seal dumping oil into the manifold, depending what position the valve in question rests at when the engine stops. Likely only smokes when the valve is in one position (either open or closed) at shut-down. Just a couple drops of oil will make a real 'skeeter killing cloud for a few seconds. When the cat gets warmed up, even if there is some oil getting by(which there likely is not (much) of, you won't see or smell the oil smoke

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Yeah.

They are special tools that compression the valve spring, so you can replace the seal (and keepers and locks, too), without having to remove the cylinder.

The big question is which seal do you want to replace? I mean, how do you know which one to think is bad? Or are you going ot replace 'em all?

I wouldn't touch it unitl it is burning a lot of oil, at least 1 quart every

1,000 mi (which is about 1 litre every 1700 km).

Jeff

The seals don't look to be terrible expensive. Got a clue as to the labor?

GK

Not 100% sure >> >>

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2001 F-150, Supercrew XLT 2WD w/ 4.6 Triton, 120K miles. With some regularity, I get a significant plume of smoke at startup. =A0 I would assume that it indicates bad valve guides. However, oil consumption is not all that high. I use 1 qt between oil changes. Truck seems to have about as much power as it always had and accelerates well. =A0 What bugs me is that the plume comes and goes. It might occur every AM startup and at the end of a work shift for 5 or 6 days, then it does not occur for a week. Anyone have an idea? Lone Gunman

=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D welcome to the world of ford design. 4.6L are known for the valve guide seals going out between 120 and 140k miles. the engine runs great, just that puff of smoke on start up or while pulling away from a stop sign or stop light. that is when the engine pulls the oil into the cylinders from the high vacuum at idle.

going down the road, you normally don't use oil because of the same reason. a lower engine vacuum.

cost to repair. when i last priced the labor job at the ford dealer, they wanted about 650 do to it.

can be done at home, needs the right tool for the job though.

you can count on the sight of the oil getting a little more visible as the miles wear on.

i use to be a used car dealer and it made no difference whether it was a ford, mercury, lincoln, or pick up truck. if it had a 4.6L within that mileage range, it did what i've described.

ford's idea of planned owner replacement?

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an interesting comment the last time i was at a lincoln dealership talking with one of the mechanics.

i mentioned the valve guide seal problem to him and added the comment about why ford doesn't redesign it to last longer since the owner of a lincoln is paying 35,000 to 40,000 for a car.

the mechanic shot back, "what do you expect? they got a 100,000 miles out of the car?

i said, "that's right, but for less money, that same owner could buy a lexus or BMW and drive it for 300,000 miles and not have a valve guide problem.

and it's the owner that lincoln that gives you a job. if he quits buying lincolns, then what happens?

the mechanic never commented on that.

~ curtis

knowledge is power - growing old is mandatory - growing wise is optional = "Many more men die with prostate cancer than of it. Growing old is invariably fatal. Prostate cancer is only sometimes so."

The job is nearly all labor. I usually charge between $500-and $650 for labor (I price it high in the hope that I don't have to do it, I don't do this for a living anymore). It's a PITA job but it is doable DIY if you have the right tools and a weekend. It's not really hard, just time consuming. Expect $550-$700 retail, that's what I see in Northern Ohio.

If you DIY, you also need valve cover gaskets and probably a few assorted parts.

Jeff