OT: ATV Oil Change Interval

Hi guys. I know this is a bit off-topic, but it is related to engines, just on a smaller scale. Regarding my 1993 Suzuki King Quad 300cc. I was curious as to how
often I should be changing my oil, especially since the engines' top end was rebuilt less than 200 kms ago. Now, to be clear, initially after it was rebuilt, I followed the Clymer manuals' break-in procedure quite closely, which includes varying the rpms and not using more than 1/3 of the throttle for the first 10 hours. At 10 hours, I drained the oil and put in a new filter, checking it to see how much metallic filings there were, which seemed normal and not excessive. Up until the 10 hour mark, I had been driving it around the yard and in the forest behind the house, but no major distance, no high speed, or loading the engine. After about 15 hours, I took it on a 5-6 hour rally, and have taken it on a few smaller runs, totaling about 150 kms. Again, a little more high-speed, but not wide-open driving, and no major power-loading of the engine for excessive periods. The manual recommends checking the oil level every trip because of the chance of excessive oil consumption, which there isn't, and high speed bursts only, up until 150 hours have been logged. I've probably only put about 20-25 hours on it since the 10 hour service. The manual recommends the next oil change at 150 hours, but that seems a bit excessive to me.
So, having said that, I've been staying on par with what the manual says and after the last short run, I decided to clean the UNI air filter and pull the oil filter out to see how much more filings there were. There is still a good amount of filings, not as much as the initial oil change, but enough that it makes me wonder if I should be changing the oil again. Keep in mind that this ATV shares the engine oil with the transmission, plus it has an oil cooler, and it takes 3.8L of oil to fill when empty. My thoughts are that when I change the oil, I'm likely not getting it all drained out of the engine/trans. and cooler. That probably explains the extra filings in the filter too, seeing as how I didn't get all the oil out the first oil change.
Should I be cautious and change the oil earlier? As well, does it seem like a good idea to remove the lower output line of the oil cooler and drain as much oil out of it as possible, and possibly even flush it out, in case there may be filings in there? Realistically, there shouldn't be, because the cooler input line picks its' oil up where oil comes out of the oil filter, so it should be contaminant-free. Is there something I should add to the engine to try and flush out as much metallic particles as I can, or would the filter be catching the majority of them?
Any advice would be greatly appreciated. BTW, I already picked up the oil and two filters and had planned to change the oil anyway, but I wanted to see what others thought first. This is the first time I've had to maintain a freshly rebuilt engine and would like to extend the life of it as long as possible.
Again, sorry about being off-topic, but I know this is a group with some really knowledgeable guys, and I didn't get any replies in alt.atv. Thanks, Sharky.
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wrote Re OT: ATV Oil Change Interval:

I would change it every 50 to 100 hours, depending on severity of service. If you just do it every 75 hours, I don't think you will ever have a problem.
--
Work is the curse of the drinking class.

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"If it looks (or feels or smells) funny, change it!"
Start motor, let run 2-3 min. Pull dipstick, examine sample of oil. Sniff it. Rub some between thumb and forefinger.
Obviously, if it looks/feels/smells like new oil, ya don't need change it. If it smells funny or looks opaque with contaminants or feels like the viscosity is altered, change it.
If you can feel material particulate matter (i.e. metal shavings) in oil, determine why before further running, then repair as necessary and change it.
Will

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That's got to be close to the worst way to judge when to change oil I have ever heard.
Change it like one of the guys above said.
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On 17/10/2010 6:58 PM, Dick Cheney wrote:

I prefer to taste it. If it tastes like peanuts, it's OK. If it starts to taste like cream soda, it's time for a change. If it tastes like BBQ sauce, you pulled the wrong dipstick - that's transmission fluid.
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On 10/17/10 6:13 PM, Wes wrote:

<...>
Will someone who is allergic to peanuts have an allergic reaction?
And, if you run out of BB sauce, can you just use used ATV transmission fluid instead?
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On 17/10/2010 7:47 PM, dr_jeff wrote:

People with peanut allergies should stick with synthetic oil, just to be safe.
Tranny fluid is not the best substitute for BBQ sauce, brake fluid on the other hand....
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This ATV doesn't have a dipstick. It has a fill cap and you check the level of the oil through a sight glass. There is no way to check the oil by feel thru the fill cap. The easiest way to check it is to remove the cover over the oil filter and let that small bit of oil drain out.
I've already done this and saw that the oil looks due for a change soon, so I think I'll do it before I go on another 100km+ run this weekend. I'd rather be safe than sorry. Thanks for all the advice.
Sharky


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Is a 1993 quad and no dipstick? Didn't know they were doing that.
I've heard that BMW's are now dipstick-less (or maybe its just certain models).
Dumb idea, for my little $.

That was the gen'l idea. If it looks funny, change it. And if it looks *really* funny, figger what's wrong.
Will
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