Parking Brake cables keep popping off

This is a 1990 Ford F150, 4WD 5 liter engine Manual Trans.
Awhile back I replaced the one parking brake cables to the driver side rear wheel. (The other one was fine), as well as the front one.
Anyhow, the ends of the cables from the rear tires have these molded "balls" on the ends of the cables. The two cables go into the equalizer, one goes on the left, the other on the right, with the front cable going to the middle. Anyhow, those "balls" go into a round hole in the equalizer which has a slot below the round hole, where the cable itself goes.
At least once a week one of those "balls" pops out of the equalizer, so I am constantly having to crawl under the truck to fix it. It's not hard to put it in as long as the pedal is all the way UP, but it's annoying, and on a manual transmission vehicle the parking brake is needed.
Is that equalizer supposed to be pinched together after the cables are inserted, or what? The pedal is tightened (adjusted) about right. IU should also mention that there was a spring under there that I removed. When the spring is used, the cables pop out almost everytime I use the brake. There's got to be soem way to make them stay in those holes. But how?
I should mention that all cables are free and I greased them where they enter the their cable housings (but not on those balls). This seems to happen most when the roads are snow covered.
Any ideas?
If someone wants a photo, I can take a pic during the daylight, but I'll need to figure out where to post it. (My newsserver does not allow binaries). I never used a blog, but I guess that would be a place to post it, (I think).
Thanks
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I would guess you have too much slack in the cable. I believe the idea is there should be some tension on the cables at all times. I'd suggest checking the adjustment procedure in the shop manual.
Ed

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the spring is there to keep tension on the cable anchor, and keep the cables in place. if the cables are falling out with the spring attached, you have it assembled wrong.

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wrote:

I would have thought the same thing, but the spring can only connect one way, and it's pulling against the path of the cable. (I know, thats hard to explain). Lets put it this way, when the spring is connected, it pulls the equalizer to the rear of the truck when I relase the pedal. That applies tension to keep the pedal UP. All of that makes sense. However, if there is a tad bit of ice or frost on the cables to the rear wheels, the equalizer is pulled back by the spring quicker than the slower moving wheel cables (due to the ice). Therefore the cables pop out all the time, at least in colder weather. Without that spring, they do not pop out nearly as often, even though the parking brake light is always flashing on and off because there is no back pressure to keep the pedal at it's top most position.
I keep thinking I should actually put a spring on the brake pedal under the dash to pull it upward, but I guess that would do the same thing.
There's only so much one can do in cold snowy weather to keep snow and ice off the bottom of the truck. I greased the cables to prevent as much ice buildup as I can. If only there was a way to keep those cable ends (balls) in their slotted holes. I've already considered screwing a piece of tin across the slots, so the cables can not come out. Maybe that's what I need to do??? But I'd think that the thing was designed to work as it is. Yet, I still wonder if it should be crimped (squeezed together by the cable holes).
Thanks

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On Wed, 06 Feb 2008 19:23:38 -0600, snipped-for-privacy@invalid.com wrote:

Drill a small hole in each side of the equalizer and install a small cotter pin or a tie wire to hold it in.
--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com


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Or a zap-strap through each hole, so there's no room for the end to pop out.

Theoretically, it should.

Doesn't say anything about crimping, but it does have pretty pictures...
http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/0a/a2/6b/0900823d800aa26b/repairInfoPages.htm
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On Thu, 07 Feb 2008 07:27:54 GMT, "MasterBlaster"

Thanks
That web link shows exactly what it looks like. If you note FIG 5, and get the closeup, it even shows how that spring pulls the equalizer on an angle toward the holes, making it even easier for the ball ends to pop out. In fact in that picture it looks like they are ready to come out.
I read the adjustment procedure, and thats about what I did, minue the "cable tension gauge" (dont have one of those). I think this is one of those cases of poor design, and in my case, some rust and wear made the holes a little larger. I think if the spring went to the rear side of the equalizer, rather then the front (hole side), ot would be less likely to pop out, but the indent for the spring is just on the front.
What you and the guy that said "cotter pins" are both excellent ideas. I'll start with the zip strap. That seems the easiest and no holes to drill. As long as the cables cant pop out of the holes, I should be all set.
It seems like sometimes we have to re-invent the wheel, at least partially. This is one of those times.
Thanks for the help.
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on my truck the spring goes to the front of the truck to keep the cables tight when released. the spring in the pedal assambly is what holds the pedal up. i still think you have the cable tensioner assembled wrong.

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wrote:

My spring goes to the rear just like in that photo on the weblink. I think that's odd too, but thats the only place it can go. There's nothing but the floor in front, no hooks or attachments. My cable tensioner looks just like in that picture too. I was glad to see that pic so I knew I had it right. I sure can not see any other way to do it.
I dont think the spring on the pedal does much more than lift the pedal. I'll have to look under there, but the pedal is always just below it's top (UP) position (without the spring on the equalizer), so the parking brake light keeps flashing when I go over bumps.
Just curious, what year and model is your truck?
Thanks
F.D.

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88 F350

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Did this "popping out" all start only after the replacement? If so......hmmmm........ maybe the cable is too long or something is not installed correctly.
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