Radiator Stop-Leak in 4.6L ?

'94 TBird LX V8, 64k mi.
Rad. started leaking a little last winter, only when temp was below, say, 30 F.
Rad. is aluminum finned unit in middle, evidently plastic tank
on each end. I'm told that the connection from tank to finned unit fails to seal as the years go by. Tracing the location of the leak seems to confirm.
I can't afford new radiator, hoses, etc, and it's generally too damned cold to work on it anyway.
I have an 11 oz. jug of Bars Leaks Stop Leak (Original Pelletized Formula) that I bought last year and was afraid to use ...
What'll this stuff do to my cooling etc system(s)? Maybe gum-up my heater core?
Would you use this or other rad. additive?
Thx, Puddin'
Pease pudding hot, Pease pudding cold, Pease pudding in the pot Nine days old ...
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if used correctly it may seal the leak, but more often than not, it normally plugs up things you want to keep open. and it will not work on the plastic tanks. it only sticks to the metal parts.

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Do not use this stuff. it will clog your heater core and only temporally fix leak if at all. Find a radiator shop to repair. If you have to go for a cheap crappy do it your self repair, I have found fiberglass/epoxy to work very well. The fiberglass works great in normally non-repairable core leaks. Just pore a bunch in and let harden.
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Puddin' Man wrote:

try tightening the crimps at the location of the leak.
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Puddin' Man wrote:

You might be able to take it out to a radiator shop and have them put a new gasket in it and re crimp it for 1/2 of what a new one would cost. Make some phone calls and ask some radiator shops. If the tank is cracked (i had that happen once) or the fins are leaking you need a replacement.
If you really depend on the car to get to work or such, a couple hundred bucks for a new radiator is not a lot to pay for dependable transportation. (compared to a few towing bills and many jugs of antifreeze). If your really cheap, watch the paper and small adds type papers for someone parting out a car like yours and buy the used radiator. Or maybe the U-Pull type salvage yards.
Bob
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wrote:

I figger less if I drop the rad. (not the car) off.

We pressure tested. All I could see was a dribble from the juncture of the tank and the fin-unit on shotgun side.

Guy at the rad. shop wrote estimate for about $500 with new hoses, etc.
I'm retired, budget's a wreck. Drive a couple/3 times a week.

I know a yard I could wrench a rad. for maybe $16, but it'd have maybe 200k mi. on it, and maybe more problems than the 1 I got. Pass on that.
I'll call around rad. shops Mon.
Much thanks, Puddin'

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Puddin' Man wrote:

New one, on line $157
http://www.radiatorexpress.com/part_lookup.asp
What ever you do, i would change the hoses and thermostat as preventative maintenance when you do the repair.
Bob
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Puddin' Man wrote:

I have had good luck fixing various manifold leaks with JB Quik Weld. Cheap and easy try.
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Puddin' Man wrote:

I have had good luck fixing various manifold leaks with JB Quik Weld. Cheap and easy try.
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