It's below the air intake tube that is between the air filter box and
the throddle body. It's screwed into a metal pipe that's between two
sections of heater hoses. There are two sensors there. The single
wire sensor goes to your dash gauge. The two wire sensor is the
coolant temperature sensor, and it goes to your car's computer. Mine
worked much better for a while simply by unplugging it and plugging it
back in, but I eventually cleaned it out pretty good. Cleaning the
wire harness connector piece is almost impossible as it's molded and
you can't take it apart and clean it out properly.
If you have to remove the Coolant temperature sensor you will need a
25MM deep well socket. A 1" might work but the brass strips easily.
I had to special order a 25MM deep well socket as it was difficult to
find. I've noted even in the junk yard removing either sensor was
very difficult of impossible. I plan to get an extra one at the
junkyard and clean it out real good and reinstall cleaned sensors and
do a quick swapout.
A new air flow sensor is very expensive!!!
To clean it you need to get a torx (I think t-20) with the hole in the
middle to take off the screws. Then carefuly remove the sensor and
clean it with brake fulid and a Q-tip (very carefully!). If you
search the internet for MAF cleaning you will see pictures and
detailed instructions. Mine was dirty at 70,000 miles.
Does the MAF sensor appear dirty or is it something microscopic? It appears
that there is an issue with certain gearboxes being damaged due to it. I
can see how this sensor would affect many components of a computer
controlled engine. This is the first car I have owned with fuel injection
and all this computer stuff.
Thanks for you input and I am gonna try it in the morn.
I don't see the gearbox being damaged because fo a dirty MAF. Mine
was visibly dirty. I've seen pictures of dirty ones on the internet
also. If it's dirty the dirt acts as an heat insulator, resulting in
an incorrect reading to your car's computer input and eventually your
car will become sluggish and idle poorly. I would not clean it they
way they show on that webpage you reference. I prefer to remove it
completely from the aluminum housing.
I like this webpage better for an explaination with good pictures:
I agree and am going to remove it from the housing so as to clean it more
effectively as well as clean the throttle body. I can see, however, that it
could effect its shift points and driveability. I noticed there is a little
bead of some material on top of one of the torx bolts on the outside of the
sensor. I assume this is factory to assure that the MAF hasn't been messed
with during the warranty period. Was yours like this and how did you remove
this "bead". Thanks for the reference material.
I failed to differentiate between the check coolant light and the Check
Engine light which the bulb was out in. I have only had this car for a
couple of weeks and it is the first Ford I have owned. Had a friend hook up
his Snap On diagonstic computer(coder reader) and got a code for a bad
oxygen sensor. $67 later it seems to be running a bit smoother and quieter
and maybe a bit cooler. I guess I'll figure out if fixes my MPG issue.
I removed the torx bolt with the epoxy by grabbing it with a pair of
wire cutters. I installed another one with no epoxy that I had gotten
from the junk yard. You can always replace both these bolts with
regular bolts but make sure they are stainless steel! I replaced them
with non-stainless steel bolts at first but they rusted after only
about one year so I took them out and put back in torx bolts that were
stanless steel. Loews carries metric stainless steel bolts (hex head)
in bags of 5.
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