Didnt any directions come with the recharge setup?
You drain all the oil you can out of the compressor... but I wouldnt bother.
- The compressor has been exposed to air for 2 years. It is prolly 18 years old. The shaft seal is suspect at the least.
- get a rebuilt, it will come with no oil.
- DEFINITELY change the accumulator... I doubt it has a receiver /dryer unless it's not a domestic.
Change ALL the o-rings and check the lands and receivers closely... it they are pitted, you are going to have leaks and, no, they wont clean up.
I would ALSO change the orifice
Dont have to tell you to NOT use PAG, do I?
I am attempting to convert my 1985 sedan to R134A. It lost its charge
> about 2 yrs ago. Have nice gauge manifold set, and had the use of a MaxCool
> vac pump. The gauge set has R134 quick-disconnects. I set it up to evacuate
> the system (and leak check) through the yellow line, pumping down both the
> hi and lo sides. I was able to evacuate it down to about 27 or 28 in. Hg
> after 30 minutes, and after closing off the valves, it did not increase a
> bit after one hour. However I discovered that the high side schrader valve
> (with the R134 adapter screwed on to it, of course) was not opened, and I
> had only pumped out from the lo side. I looked closer at the schrader valve
> after removing the adapter, and some mechanic in the past plugged up the
> inside of it with something that looks like black plastic. It seems harder
> than RTV, but its not JB Weld at least. I might be able to dig it out and
> put in a new valve. I suspect that they found it leaking there, and rather
> than take the time to install a new schrader valve body, they just plugged
> it up and replaced the metal screw cap over it. Question is, I heard or read
> somewhere that you are not supposed to use the usual valve body like for a
> tire or for R12... it needs to be a special one. Is this true? If there is
> no way to repair the hi side service valve, I will just recharge it and not
> be able to see what the high side pressure is...but I really want to be able
> to do it the right way.
>
> I also found out that the vac pump WON'T pull the oil out of the
> system, despite what the guy behind the counter at Autozone said.... and
> since all the R-12 oil should still be in the system, I didn't proceed with
> the recharge. The compressor is the low point, so I would imagine it is all
> down in or near the compressor.
> I don't have an air compressor, but I saw that you can buy complete
> flush kits using canned air. Does it usually take a whole gallon of the
> flush agent to do the job? It is sure expensive, $12.00 for just a quart of
> it at Autozone. But I found one site on the Web that has a complete kit with
> the flush chemical for about $40.00
> What is your recommendation on a flush kit? What are the chances of
> screwing up the compressor seals or inducing a leak by pulling the lines off
> of the compressor (or elsewhere) on a car going on 20 year old?
> Also, is it better to install some UV dye, or is the cheap red dye good
> enough?
> I am going to get the system flushed, probably change the
receiver/dryer
too, and THEN recharge. Thanks!
>
>