After 3 months FINALLY resolved!! :) :)
Started trying to use the AC and it wouldn't switch from defrost.. Did some checking and wasn't getting any vacuum inside to the AC switch. Traced it back and found alot of fuel in the vacuum hoses. Turned out the Fuel Pressure Regulator was dumping pressurized fuel directly into the vacuum system.
I'm still shocked it was running "normally" even with the fuel being forced through the vacuum system, all with no fault codes and passing an emission test...
Starts good, and the AC now switches normally.... Fixing 2 seemingly unrelated issues in 30 minutes... priceless!!
Can anyone explain WHY vacuum is even needed on the FPR?
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Hi...
I have a 1998 Ford Windstar, 3.8, with about 102K miles. I have disassembled and cleaning everything such as the TPS, ISC, PCV, etc and still having issues.
Symptoms.
- Cold Engine - Starts easily, runs fine.
- Warm - Shut off and if started immediately, starts and runs fine.
- Warm - Shut off for 10 minutes and restarts, runs rough for 10-15 seconds, then runs fine.
- Warm - Shut off for 30 minutes, Cranks for 10-15 seconds before restarting, runs rough for a few seconds, then runs fine.
Shut it off for an hour and it starts perfectly!
Any clues where I should start looking?
mileage down and HC reading at high end of specs. Gave it a tuneup that it was due for with no good results. Replaced the O2 sensor with no help. No codes in ECM. Started going thru system by the book checking reading against specs on each sensor. The ECT was found about 30% higher impedance than expected at several temperatures. Replaced it and reset to ECM. HC reading dropped, fuel mileage up , hard start and roughness corrected. May not be your problem but, sometimes, you just have to get down to the bare elements to find it. A good alternative for what I did is get your dealer to run a complete diagnostic on it. These type things seem to be found by the Ford test equipment. You '98 year model also has much more info available to isolate the problem. The diagnostic cost is usually about an hour's labor which is applied toward the repair if you choose to go ahead with repair. In the long run, a good service tech can save you money. If your problem is resulting in an over rich fuel condition, the converter can easily be damaged which can cost a bundle and you still have to get it repaired. Then again, you could just put in a new ECT sensor and and hope to get lucky the first time.