Replacing the driveshaft oil seal in Differential

A decent service manual takes a lot of the guess work out of most jobs. Before diving inside the differential, I would highly recommend getting one. It will pay for it's self over & over (assuming you keep the truck for a long time).

Has anyone read this?

F.D.

Shawn did and gave a very helpful reply, most of the answers to your questions would be answered by following his advise...

Thats weird, it never showed up on my server. I never saw any reply at all.

I thought aioe.org sometimes missed posts. Now I know it obviously does. Or maybe there's some other reason ????

Could you or anyone be kind enough to quote it again. I'll look on google archives, but who knows if it's there. Usenet gets weird at times.

Thanks

F.D.

Never mind the having to quote the messsage from Shawn, I found it on googlegroups.

However, a manual is not going to answer whether or not it's possible to remove the nut while working on the garage floor. I did get a parts exploded view on autozone.com, along with the basic instructions. But that still dont tell whether I can do this job with hand tools and no hoist. Manuals give "how to" instructions, but only experience can tell whether the job is possible under specific conditions.

F.D.

A decent service manual takes a lot of the guess work out of most jobs. Before diving inside the differential, I would highly recommend getting one. It will pay for it's self over & over (assuming you keep the truck for a long time).

On the floor with hand tools? Yes... depending on your desire and/or dedication to the task... I wont.

The first requirement is to measure the rotating torque of the pinion... it is important that the bearings be returned to near the same preload as they had before the disassembly.... The pinion nut is TIGHT.... You'll need a decently long lever and some way to hold the pinion from turning.... Air tools can help, but they need to be used carefully and wisely to keep from "gaining" preload.

Service manuals need to be read carefully... The pinion seal isn't a "zip-zap" deal.... but I will admit that many have made it a "zip-zap" deal and have had luck on their side (these are the guys that will call this repair a "no brainer". I'm top heavy on apprentices at this time... and this repair is far from a "no brainer".... a mis-step can be very, very spendy. DAMHIKT.

These same service manuals can either explain the repair in great detail.... or be written by someone that assumes the reader has some previous knowledge and experience. If you find a service manual that has an inch/pound torque wrench in the required tools list and mentions "rotating torque" in the procedure.... this is the one you need. IF (and this is a very big IF) you have "the feel", you can probably do fairly well without the inch/pounds torque wrench... After nearly 40 years, I still reach for it regularly....

yes

dedication to the task... I wont.

important that the bearings be returned to near the

TIGHT.... You'll need a decently long lever and some way to

carefully and wisely to keep from "gaining" preload.

deal.... but I will admit that many have made it a

call this repair a "no brainer". I'm top heavy on

mis-step can be very, very spendy. DAMHIKT.

or be written by someone that assumes the reader has

an inch/pound torque wrench in the required tools

need. IF (and this is a very big IF) you have "the

wrench... After nearly 40 years, I still reach for it

Another approach is if the job seems too difficult, you can always drop the rear axle assembly & take it to a driveshaft shop & have the "pros" change the seal. It may cost you some for the labor & seal(s) but you will save a considerable amount by removing & installing the axle unit yourself.

"Shawn" wrote in news:47ae43df$0$6132$ snipped-for-privacy@roadrunner.com:

You really want him to do a lot of extra work for nothing. On a hoist it is maby, oh 5 min. to remove the drive shaft, and that is all he will save. This is a job I probly would sudjest he take to a shop. It is not that expensive a repair and won`t risk a expensive mistake. Or if you have a mech friend with experince to be there to guide you through it that would be ok also. KB

This is the kind of info I was looking for. I am not sure how one would "hold the pinion"? Doesn't keeping the wheels on the ground mean the pinion is not going to turn? That's where I question how this would be done on a hoist, at least without ripping the whole differential apart to lock that gear (somehow) from the inside. Otherwise I pretty much got the picture of what to do.

Actually, I think I am going to leave this one for the shop to do. That's why I asked. I like to DIY most of what I can, but I dont see how I can get a long enough lever on that nut when the truck is on the ground, not to mention that preload stuff. I have a torque wrench though. Rarely use it....

As for manuals, I find most of them are pretty useless, unless they are the ones directly from the factory. The factory ones are excellent, but very costly. Those Chiltons books and others like them are fairly cheap, but not worth much of anything except for a beginner who is trying to do a tuneup. Years ago, everytime I got a newer car, or different brand, I'd buy one of them. They're really so generic that they are almost all the same. Almost every one, regardless of make, model, and year have the same thing in about 80% of the book. About the only thing specific to the make, model and year are the specifications, and a once and awhile they may have a few photos of the vacuum hoses and wiring for that particular vehicle, and even then, it covers several models so it's never 100% accurate.

That autozone.com site is probably more useful than most of the generic books I have boughten. The last time I bought a Chiltons manual was before the internet existed. These days there is more online than in those books. The tuneup specs are always online, and that seems to be the main reason I bought those books in the past, if I was too busy to spend time at the library.

Thanks

F.D.

I had mine in an 03 Excursion replaced a few weeks ago. was around $140~ including lubricates and the additive. Was well worth the expense to have it done at a shop...

My Son & I did this same proceedure on an old 1989 Ford stick, straight 6,