snapped lower intake bolt on 3.8L v-6

Describe the torque wrench you used.

The first thing you need to figure out is whether you're working on a 3.8 or a 4.6. Since you are doing head gaskets I'll assume it is the 3.8 in which case the max torque on the lower intake bolts is only 106 inch/lbs.

I'm quite sure that it's a 3.8 -

In that case, the Haynes manuak is completely wrong. It seemed wrong anyway. Where;s a good source for the proper torques specifications? I want to make sure there are no other 'mistakes'. The torque wrence has a dial on the handle and it 'clicks' when the proper torque is reached.

Thanks,

Chip

"Chip" wrote

I see two steps at 18 and 22 "N-m" (Newton-Metres). That's 13 and 16 ft.lbs according to Autozone's page...

and 13.28 / 16.23 according to...

You can buy a helm manual. They are OEM approved... Search Helm in google. You cant miss it.

Buy a needle and pointer type torque wrench, and have it calibrated regularly, like once a year depending on how much you use it. Most techs that I know get their stuff calibrated once a year.

Ford Tech

"MasterBlaster" ft.lbs

Correct me if I am wrong, but doesnt Autozone use Hayne's manuals for their website??? I think they do, thats all they sell in the store.. But you wont catch me shoppin there, unless I cant get it elsewhere.. LOL

Ford Tech

Well, since Autozone owns Alldata, I'm pretty sure that it's Alldata.

From the Ford manual:

Tighten in two steps:

5 N-m (45 lb-in).

8-12 N-m (71-106 lb-in).

106 lb-in is a lot less than 22 ft. lbs., it's just under 9.

Rob

If memory serves me correctly that's an M6X1 bolt..usually 8-12 N-M torques spec....

Chip,

The first thing that I would do is never again in a billion years ever, ever, ever use a Haynes or Chilton manual, as they are worthless, misleading junk writtin by absolute morons who are clueless about the real nuts and bolts end of auto mechanics--I have a collection of authentic, totally complete Ford service manuals on CD. If you would like one for 96, I'll burn one and send it to you for free.

Land O'Lakes Fred

The proper torque would depend on the property class A 4.8 M6 bolt shouldn't be torqued past 6.2 N-m, the proof load would be achieved at around 8.2 N-m. An 8.8 M6 bolt should be torqued to 9 to 11.3 N-m. The proof load is achieved at around 16 N-m. Higher grade M6 Bolts (12.9) could have a proper torque as high as 16.3 N-m.

I looked at the Ford DVD and the bolt size was not given, but they looked to be bigger than an M6 - but it was only a drawing.

Ed

If it's the intake version I'm thinking of there are M6 bols of two lenghts. I see another poster has looked it up before I had a chance to...

Ok according to PTS websites online WSM, the correct torque is:

1st turn- 44 in.lb. or (5Nm) 2nd go round- 71-106 in lbs. or (8-12Nm)

The book you have is wrong or you were looking at the wrong bolt torque.

Ford Tech

The end of the story (almost)... I did get more bolts and torqued them to

106 in.lbs. No problems. Just got in from the garage and it's almost complete. Thanks for all of the help and advice, going to have a fire using Haynes manuals for fuel. It's cold around here in NE Ohio this week.

Chip

see another

There are 2 length bolts and M6 sounds about right. They're a bit smaller than

1/4". (They do break easily if slightly overtorqued). They always seemed wimpy to me, but this may have been intentional to prevent overtorquing of the aluminum intake onto the aluminum head. Better to break a bolt than to damage a head or intake manifold. Aluminum parts don't need to be attached together with Grade 5 (~12.9) bolts. 10 N-m should work for a 3.8 intake. The actual torque isn't as important as the torque being even among all of the bolts. A bit less or a bit more, within reason, is good as long as they are all the same.

C'mon Fred. don't sugar coat it. Tell us how you REALLY feel about Haynes and Chitlin's. ;) (I wouldn't hit a dog in the A** with either manual).

-I have a

Don't advertise that TOO freely. The CD\DVD versions are available for download but the jury is still out on how legal that is. (I have a full original set through '04 and share them when needs be) Copies are also prominently available on Ebay for pennies. I'm still wondering (amazed!!) why the Copyright lawyers from Ford or Helm aren't having a field day.

Chip, take septicman up on his offer, or better yet check Ebay for the paper manuals for your car. There's nothing better than the original service literature when working on your own car. Helm and Chilton are full of mistakes and don't cover anything but the very basics, and then not reliably.

Chip, Yes, use the Haynes as kindling. It is well suited for that as they burn hot and not too awfully fast. Where are you in NE Ohio? I'm in Amherst, about 35 miles west of Cleveland. We may be neighbors. You must be a better man than me. If 3.8 head gaskets had been on my agenda the past couple of weeks, it would have had to wait! We just now got up into the 2 digit temps. That's a miserable job at 70 degrees. I hope you have heat and good lighting available in your garage.

I located 2 more problems today. The engine is back together and it runs smooth. However, I became worried when the temperature gage did not move. I think I discover the source of the original problem that caused the haed gaskets to go bad. The thermostat must be stuck closed, broken. Tomorrow, I'll change it. I should have just done that as part of the process but I really didn't even think about it. Not a big deal yet because I caught it right away. The other problem is the overflow connection that is under the radiator cap. It's plastic and it broken right at the base of the tube. I'm not exactly sure what to do about it yet. I'd hate to think that I need to replace the radiator just to fix such a small thing like that. Is there anyway to repair that? I'm thinking that I can just glue it back together with some superglue or epoxy. That sound reasonable?

Thanks again,

Chip

If it was stuck closed, The temperature gauge would be moving. If it was stuck open, it would be sluggish going up. Either way, replace it. Make sure the orientation is right. Get one with a gigle valve if the original had one.

Tomorrow,

My s10 did the same thing. I went and got a plastic hose coupler at the autoparts store. Shoved one end into the radiator and the other on the hose. It constricts it a little, but i have got away with it so far.

Bob