Starting problem 1980 ford

After jumping a wire from the bat+ to the coil+ the car starts normally. Which component is likely causing it not to start when not jumpered? Ballast
resistor? Location
Thanks
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Likely a dirty connection on the solenoid on the fender. One of the small side push on ones.
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Martik wrote:

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"Martik" wrote

1 - Is there power at the coil with the key "on"?
2 - 1980 Ford... what? Australian Laser TX3? British Cortina Mk V? American Pinto wagon?
Can't help if we don't have ALL the relevant info.
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yes, spark is weak (i think) orange not blue/white when coil wire placed 1/4" from block

Tbird 255 cu in
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I would check out the ignition switch , the ballast resistor or resistor wire / fusable link (depending on what was used at that time), any capacitors attached to the coil for noise suppression, and grounds in that circuit.
You are telling us that you are bypassing the circuit that provides voltage to the coil to create a spark becuase the voltage is too low, correct ?
You might also want to check all the wires ganged up on the starter solenoid. Corrosion buildup between the ends could cause trouble.
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Thanks. No, because it will not start, spark is too weak
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The power to the coil when the key is in 'start' is a different circuit that comes off the side of the solenoid on the fender.
Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id !15147590 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
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On Wed, 04 Oct 2006 00:24:26 GMT, "Martik"

What is the voltage at the coil in the start - not run - key position. If the voltage is low or none, you have a problem in the start circuit. If you have 7-10 volts in the run position, you are OK. The start circuit bypasses the run circuit to give the coil higher voltage for more spark when starting. The run voltage passes thru a resistor wire in Fords. Another problem may be your DuraSpark module which has it's own test procedure.
Lugnut
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make shure you check the battery cable and make shure the conectionn to the battery is tight
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wrote:

Start voltage is 7, Run voltage is 10
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Car starts but stops when key released from start pos = ballast resistor
Car runs okay, starts hard but better when batt + jumpered to coil. Solenoid/relay bypass.
Only starts AND runs when jumpered = wiring TO ign switch, ign switch, or wiring between ballast resistor and coil.
Test lights are cheap... buy one in the hardware or autoparts discount bin next time oyu see one.
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wrote:

This is the senario except will NOT start (unless some gas poured down carb) but runs OK. Theory I have hear is that the extra rich condition from raw gas poured down carb allows startup with weaker spark)

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Some Ford systems have a gas return line with a double outlet on the fuel filter. If this is yours and the center line goes to the carb, then the return line has to go on the top or the gas will syphon back to the tank air locking the gas line. You then need to prime the carb. You can also get this if you have a pinhole leak on the suction side of the gas pump.
If you add gas to a weak spark, you just flood it.
Still sounds like a dirty connection on the solenoid to me also.
Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id !15147590 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
Martik wrote:

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