starting problem

Hi, I have Ford countour 1995 lx, i replaced the battery a week ago. Two days ago i was driving it fine and parked it for 15 minutes. When i tried to start it again it didnt crank and all it does was
clicking noise. The battery was fine and the head light and wipers were moving ok.After overnight i found the battery was totally discharged so i got the battery recharged again and again same thing happend, the battery were totally discarged just sitting there overnight. I did a little test to check that the current is going to the engine.I turned the headlights on and then tried to crank , the lights showed little dim effect when i turned the key so i think the starter is ok. As the battery was fully charged when the car stopped so i think the alternator is also working fine.So now i cant figure out the problem. May be the battery cables ar bad because they dont look in good shape. Any suggestion before i get it towed...
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From fully charged down to dead overnight means one of three things - either there's a parasitic load somewhere, and a fairly big one. Second, the alternator is bad and you aren't starting with a full charge like you think you are. Or you have a bad new battery - it happens.
First thing is to put it on a battery charger and get the battery back up to full charge ASAP. Leaving it dead overnight is bad, will wreck the new battery fast.
Leave the battery cable (either one, but negative is preferred) totally disconnected overnight, check the voltage in the morning. If the battery is still 12.6V or so in the morning, it's probably fine.
Then get an inline ammeter like you would use in the dashboard - 30-0-30 or 60-0-60 and put it between the ground cable and the post, see if there are big loads first. If that one moves with nothing on, you have serious trouble somewhere. Check the alternator, see the bottom.
Next step is the 10-amp DC scale on your Digital Voltmeter. If that comes up clean, go down to the DC Milliamp scale. Normal parasitic draws from the computer, clock and alarm together shouldn't be over 50 milliamps normally.
But if you have over an amp (1000 milliamps) of load, it is a larger light like the trunk or hood light stuck on, and that's enough to kill it overnight. Brake lights will be 3 to 5 amps, and many times when the switch breaks it defaults to ON. Start tracking it down - Pull fuses till the load goes away, ten see what that fuse supplies.
It can also be a shorted rectifier diode inside the alternator, which will make it put out less charge current and create a big drain with the engine off. Try pulling all the alternator leads (especially the big output cable) and see if the parasitic load goes away.
Use two wrenches, one to hold the output stud steady on the square boss, and the other on the nut - or you can twist the leads off the inside half of the stud, which is bad.
--<< Bruce >>--
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Bruce L. Bergman wrote:

Hey Bruce thanks for suggestion. I finally tried to jump start the car and it worked. Then i took my car to mechanics and he tested the battery and the other things like alternator and the starter and he said that everything is fine.I really dont know what happened to the car. Mechanic said there can be some bulb who is consuming the power from the battery so he removed the bulb from the hood as he said the bulb look like it has been burning continuosly. Lets see what happens now. till now the car is working fine. thanks for the reply.
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Hood light - Hmmm... Is your normal parking place on a steep slope?
You can activate the tilt switch that turns the hood or trunk light on by parking on a real steep incline...
--<< Bruce >>--
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Bruce L. Bergman wrote:

hi bruce once again i have aproblem in starting. as my car was parked for 4 days continuosly and i didnt cranked it, now it is not cranking . I tried to jump start it now but it dont jump start now. What can be the problem again? i am confused...
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