steel brake lines

Hi folks. Could anyone tell me what size of brake line was used on 1994 Ford Taurus? Also, what type of flared end I should buy? Bubble flare or another type?? Am looking to replace a section of rusted line with a replacement length and a compression fitting, if this is possible. Any tips or suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks.. John

Reply to
John J
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I assume it's rear line. Note that Ford tends to use non-standard flare nuts at one end of line for assembly purposes. There are actual brass adapters available ..DONT use the kluge short line adapters that Autozone sells. OR break the line and use the OEM nut if it's still in good shape.

I have tried comprssion fittings to join lines and dont recommend it. They tend to rust under the ferrule or seep.

Get a double flare tool at Harbor freight and practice.

Here's another hint.. to remove the old line, just use PB Blaster, cut the line and use a 6-point socket on fitting, before even TRYING a tubing wrench. Saves some frustration.

Reply to
Backyard Mechanic

Just buy premade lines with the fittings already on them and bend them to fit. Use the old lines as a template.

Bob

Reply to
Bob Urz

The compression fitting repair on brake lines is a bad idea.

Reply to
John Horner

If you try to cut and flare the old line while it's on the vehicle, you'll be hating life in short order. You'll find that "other" rusty spot in the line pretty quick when you disturb it, along with any weak spots in the line going to the other rear wheel that runs next to it. Why not get about 10' of bulk tubing, flare the front and attach it, cut to length. flare the rear and attach it, then anchor the new line to the old one. It's actually easier than patching the old line and fewer possibilities for leaks. The old line and the new pre cut sections are harder than the bulk line (which is milder steel). You'll have to have a good quality flaring tool (Mac, Snap On, OTC, etc) to flare it. The lower cost tools like the one available at Sears, Auto Zone, etc. will tend to distort and crack the line at the new flares. Been there, done that.

Reply to
Tom Adkins

The key statement was: The old line and the new pre cut sections are harder than the bulk line > (which is milder steel). You'll have to have a good quality flaring tool > (Mac, Snap On, OTC, etc) to flare it.

Often the clamp can't hold the line well enough and it slides down through it, when using cheaper tools. I really recommend the softer, more flexible bulk line.

Reply to
Tom Adkins

Reply to
John J

" The compression fitting repair on brake lines is a bad idea. "

It's also illegal for street use in some jurisdictions, and if the inspection station doesn't catch it, but a 'post accident investigation' does, you'll really be in deep...

Reply to
Eric G

Reply to
John J

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