I assume it's rear line. Note that Ford tends to use non-standard flare
nuts at one end of line for assembly purposes. There are actual brass
adapters available ..DONT use the kluge short line adapters that Autozone
OR break the line and use the OEM nut if it's still in good shape.
I have tried comprssion fittings to join lines and dont recommend it.
They tend to rust under the ferrule or seep.
Get a double flare tool at Harbor freight and practice.
Here's another hint.. to remove the old line, just use PB Blaster, cut
the line and use a 6-point socket on fitting, before even TRYING a tubing
wrench. Saves some frustration.
Yeh, I'm a Krusty old Geezer, putting up with my 'smartass' is the price
you pay..DEAL with it!
" The compression fitting repair on brake lines is a bad idea. "
It's also illegal for street use in some jurisdictions, and if the inspection station doesn't catch it, but a 'post accident investigation' does, you'll really be in deep...
Yes..I've started to see that...from what I've been reading up on. I'm going
to try and cut and flare a new section in. Line looks good up front.
Thanks to all for tips and info.Great source of info here. Thank you.
If you try to cut and flare the old line while it's on the vehicle, you'll be
life in short order. You'll find that "other" rusty spot in the line pretty
you disturb it, along with any weak spots in the line going to the other rear
that runs next to it.
Why not get about 10' of bulk tubing, flare the front and attach it, cut to
flare the rear and attach it, then anchor the new line to the old one. It's
easier than patching the old line and fewer possibilities for leaks.
The old line and the new pre cut sections are harder than the bulk line (which
milder steel). You'll have to have a good quality flaring tool (Mac, Snap On,
etc) to flare it. The lower cost tools like the one available at Sears, Auto
etc. will tend to distort and crack the line at the new flares. Been there, done
Boy..today I certainly did not enjoy life..!.. Was able to remove the old
fitting from the "proportioning valve?" block after cutting the line and
using socket per previous advice..actually removed both right side rusty
lines and cut them a foot or so in front of the rear wheel. The flare on the
line I removed was a bubble type, so the guy at the parts store got me some
adapter fittings so I could use the precut lengths they sold which had
double flares. Anyway.. I practiced several flares on a piece of the old
line, with no luck.. I mean I couldn't even get that line to bend over for
the first part of the flare. Is it possible the old line is just too thick
to double flare?..I'm sort of dead in the water here.
The key statement was:
The old line and the new pre cut sections are harder than the bulk line
> (which is milder steel). You'll have to have a good quality flaring tool
> (Mac, Snap On, OTC, etc) to flare it.
Often the clamp can't hold the line well enough and it slides down through it,
using cheaper tools. I really recommend the softer, more flexible bulk line.
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