Tap Tap Tap Tap

ka9szx opined in news: snipped-for-privacy@enews2.newsguy.com:

Dunno WHY you would switch to a thicker oil for the winter! Hint... it's louder when the engine is COLD, and when the engine is COLd the oil is ...WHAT?

Did the additive make a difference? If it didnt, maybe you ought to consider running a really high detergent really good lubricating oil, like Mobil 1. I run it in all my cars and, since doing so, never had a "tap" even over

a 88 with a tapping valve is a pain to fix and probably not worth it unless you can do it yourself.. if you have to ask then you probably cant do it????? would not pay a shop to fix it.. you can probably get another used 88 model car for the price of a repair on this car if you look hard enough.. probably just nurse it along and be on the lookout for a replacement... dont drive it too hard and you could get another 50,000 miles out of it before it croaks...

ka9szx wrote:

Instead of using oil, use the thickest differential lube you can find. I know a guy who swore by it. The only problem he could not get the cars to start in cold winter weather. I am not advising you to do this. Just saying what I was told by this guy, and he does know mechanical things. Of course if you are in a cold area, no sense trying it now.

I had another guy tell me to add tranny fluid to the oil. I had an Olds that had a noisy lifter. I drove the car for 8 years like that, and the engine still runs today, but the transmission died. The car had near 300,000 miles on it. I never did add the tranny fluid to the oil. Just seemed too risky.

Yeah ONE WORD GENIUS

REBUILD IT OR BLOW IT THE F UP

Sorry bout that. I was thinking in opposite mode when I wrote that.

The 5 minute flush stuff made the most difference, it ran pretty quiet for a day and then it began again. The additive probably has not much of a chance to really work since it has been in only about 500 miles or so. I am going to keep a pretty close eye on how clean the oil looks and feels and change it out at 3 thousand. The Mystery Oil reminded me of ATF in the consistancy and smell.

ka9szx wrote

change the filter every 500... till the next change

think about what i wrote about Mobil 1. The problem is not what most think.. that the oil is too thin... the problem is buildup of sludge/varnish.. ie; too THICK!

Your mystery oil will dissolve some of it and break loose some more.. THEN what?!

Just use Mobil 1 and it will KEEP dissolving the stuff and lubricate better besides..

I agree that Mobil 1 or a similar full synthetic will thoroughly clean out almost any engine. My experience with synthetic oils in relatively high mileage engines (149K according to the OP) is that it's light enough to find it's way _out_ of an engine all too easily - past the rings, through the valve guides, and past any marginal gasket or seal.

I'd use a full synthetic as a good cleaning agent. Then once the engine is thoroughly cleaned out, change to a high-quality dino or synthetic blend.

Just my $0.02.

| George Ruch | "Is there life in Clovis after Clovis Man?"

George Ruch opined in news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com:

Well.. so far I've used it in 4 different cars with more than 160K and I havent found it to leak enough to spot a driveway, nor has loss into combustion been more than a quart per 1500miles, and that on ONE car. That may seem excessive to some but it's nothing to the "old days" and it's perfectly acceptable to me.

And your info may be dated, in previous discussions/brouhaha's over this, it has been claimed that the molecule was changed in the last decade to seep less and others point out that the cleaning effect itself finds migration paths that would allow leakage of ANY lube.

More telling is the discovery that I could pop out the pistons on a 2.3 after