Taurus door chime sounds after replacing ingition switch. Any ideas?

I am looking at possibly having to do this on a '91. How big a job is this.

Not an expert on this problem, but it almost sounds like there is something out of alignment. Was there any type of adjustment built into things when you put it back together? I know there used to be adjustments for things like the transmission gear selection pointer.

I am assuming you replaced the igntion cylinder (where the key goes) rather then the switch (at the bottom of the column). Pull the cylider back out, you'll see a small brass tab that probably got bent, straighten it out.

Hi,

It was an easy job as I recall. Must have been too easy as I screwed it up somehow :-> . Instructions came with the new key lock that I purchased at out local auto discount store.

Later, B.

Hi,

Yes, I did replace the keylock cylinder only. I'll pull that lock out again and have a look at the assembly and recepticle.

Thank you for your experience with this.

Later, B.

Test Post, please ignor.

Hi,

I finally had time to revisit this problem last weekend.

To remove the Lock Cylinder (ie. "LC"), remove the negative battery cable, then insert the key, turn it to the "Run" position, then use a piece of coat hanger through the factory hole, feel for the top of the LC pin, and gently push up on the 1/8" pin in there (jiggling the lock a little helps I found), and then pull the LC straight out. Once removed, be sure to note the position of the LC to the outside chrome/black LC flange (ie. the part you actually turn with the key) because it needs to be in this "Run" position when reinserted. If you mess this up, look down in the bore and you can see the orientation of the square receiving hole, which will assist is figuring out the proper LC orientation.

Look inside the LC bore, and make sure that the little brass tab in there is protruding about 1/8" so as to make contact with the fixed brass strip on the LC when the LC is reinserted. My tab had a little piece of black plastic under it that was broken and falling away, so I just removed it. I reinserted that LC, but I still had the chiming problem. (Btw, this would be a good time for a small dab of spray Lithium grease down in the bottom of that bore.)

The LC also has a second brass strip that moves outward when the key is inserted, and. it makes contact with a 1'4" "spider" shaped steel/aluminum plate. That plate has four downward legs that hold it into the LC, and two center upward legs to make contact with the LC bore. In my case this plate was damaged right from the supplier. It was bent inwards quite a bit so as to constantly make contact with the second brass strip.

I gently pried the plate off, reformed it square more or less, bent up the middle legs 1'16" so as to make contact with the bore when reinserted, then bent out the outside four legs slightly so as to make it stay put on the LC surface mount and tested my work: Now I had no chiming at all, with or without the key.

I removed the LC again and discovered that it is necessary hold that plate down with your thumb gently, and use something to bend that plate in very slightly (maybe .005 to .010") at the top end, in such a manner that when the key is inserted, the brass strip makes contact with the edge of the spider plate, and, when the key is removed, it does not make contact with the spider plate. There was some trial and error on this adjustment until I got it right (even using continuity tester).

Hope this helps someone else in the way that your replies helped me. Thank you all again.

Regards, Brcobrem