Taurus Overheating?

Hi. I'm wondering about the Taurus that we have. It's an 88, 3.0L V6 Vulcan, and it overheats -slightly- when you drive it... It goes a tick past the middle of the NORMAL mark. Of course, if you drive it too hard, it will go
3/4 of the NORMAL mark, and when you turn the car off, it will spit some antifreeze out of the reservoir.
The radiator has been fixed, twice. It has a new thermostat and water pump (wondered what that weird sound was). Car has issues accelerating from stop but will go to 70 just fine... Sometimes it likes to pop when you are accelerating, other times, it accelerates really well. Sometimes doesn't start, but when it does, it feels like it's catching and getting more gas. The fuel pump has been replaced, and the fuel filter has been replaced numerous times. Of course, I am told that the fuel pump should not have come from autozone, but what's done is done, I didn't buy it. When it's acting nice, the fuel pressure is 28 psi at idle, and when doing the KOER test, it says Lean Bank 1 H02 not switching or something. The accelerating/hard starting is not much of an issue, but the overheating really is. The fan works and turns on at the right time. There has been so much put into this car, that it can't just be junked. Right now the steering rack is being replaced.
I really hope someone in here may have some clue as to why it acts so funny because whenever we take it to the mechanic, it acts just fine. I have been with him in the front seat, and it acts just fine. Our backyard mechanic said it is the timing chain causing the overheating and driveability problems, but I was told by the mechanic that if it starts real easy (and sometimes it does), it is not the timing chain.
Here's a probably incomplete list of all that's been done: Temp Sensor Alternator Transmission rebuilt Heatercore flushed Power Steering Pump Water Pump Fuel Pump Battery Thermostat 1 Tie-Rod End Plugs/Wires/Rotor/Cap Rack in Progress Belts Tires High Pressure PS Line Window Regulators on Driver/Passenger side needs new Engine mounts has a hole in pipe that goes to the muffler... just had that happen a week ago :(
The car only has 104K miles on it and passes inspection. I know it's really old, but once you've spent $600 for a car, then spent $1400 to get the transmission rebuilt, then put all of this labor into it, and only have kept it for 3 or 4 years, it's sorta hard to think of selling it for $800. THE FACTORY RADIO STILL WORKS, THOUGH! :)
TIA Sorry for the long posting
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It sounds like you have a lean condition. Your fuel pressure is low, check the filter and regulator. Remove your plugs and read them, look for one which is white from a lean condition. If you have an uniform lean condition you will have overheating. When you say that your radiator has been fixed twice, do you mean soldered or recored? If its just been soldered, I would suspect its time for a new rad core (or whole new rad) as most likely yours is corroded up and now inefficient, plus its difficult to see the condition of the rad with that long filler neck. That popping when accelerating is likely a lean miss. You should scope your o2 sensors to verify that they are fully ranging, and if there is any question as to their condition I would replace at that age.

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It cost $35 to fix it.
Then when it leaked again, they spent another $35 to fix it. I know, I'm not the one who decided all this... I would just buy a radiator for $100 and be done with it, but right now, for a car that eats money, I just don't know anymore.
Thanks.

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so what can cause a lean condition?

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The Bathtub Admiral wrote:

Well, if you have seen many taurus radiators, most are not soldered at all. They use adhesive to attach the cooling fins/pipes to the side plates. The ends are plastic tanks that are crimped on. The crimps are a weak point with leaking at the seam. The other problem is micro sized cracks in the end tank. They won't leak at rest, but pressurize and heat up the system and they will spout steam. I had this happen to two of mine. I agree with the recommendation, replace the radiator. Its a lot of fun to get the dam transmission cooler lines reconnected. I also assume the thermostat is ok and NOT in backwards? And the radiator hoses are in good shape and not collapsing under stress. And put a new radiator cap on with the new radiator. For good measure, i would change the ECT sensor on the engine that tells the computer what temp the engine is at.
That popping when accelerating is

The other things to check in "Old Taurus disease" are all small vacuum hoses. I bet if you look close, you will find a lot of them cracked and need of replacement. There are a lot of them, and some loop across the front of the engine to the radiator support area.

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is rebuilding the assembly a pretty "obvious" job or is it complicated?
about what mileage should the timing chain be replaced?
now that i know what the vacuum line is, it's the purge canister that's disconnected
that shouldn't cause any problems, should it? cuz underneath the crud and all the leaked power steering fluid, i can't find any charcoal canister! got finished replacing the rack today. :)
the car will only spout fluid out of the reservoir after you turn it off but not when it's on
thanks

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I would suggest that you get the radiator replaced or get rid of the car and sell it for $400. Today, late model Taurus from the late 80's with problems you mentioned are now worth between $400 to $600. Another suggestion is you need to get new mechanics.
~CyberWolf

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My 89 Sable varies between bordering the "o" in "normal" in stop-and-go driving or idling on hot days, and down near the "a" when cruising at 70 on the highway on a cloudy day. If he's not losing coolant and the oil looks alright, there's probably nothing wrong.
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Well, it's summer....
Of course, if you drive it too hard, it will go

You're driving it "hard"; what's unexpected?

You mean into the reservoir?
If you're not leaking/losing coolant; check its water/fluid ratio; if it's overly water, you could be getting steam bubbles where you wouldn't otherwise.
How fast do you drive on the highway?
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wrote:

Before my Ford Tempo died of cracked heads, it usually spilled the antifreeze after stopping the car. And my 86 Cavalier's heads were cracked when it reached 103,000 miles. There is something weird about 100,000 mile mark and American cars and, in particular, Ford and GM. So, your symptoms may involve engine. My advise is stop feeding this old car, unless if you are really really can't get another one.
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i don't know the guage doesn't say it's overheating :(
wrote:

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it won't boil over unless we fill the reservoir a little bit to the cold line and again, it always stays in the NORMAL mark except once in a very few times, it will go past the normal mark when you turn the car off
but if just the radiator is full, it won't boil over. i -really- -really- hope i'm not damaging the heads cuz that's a costly repair and the car sounds nice
wrote:

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me wrote:

Many cars go over 100K so that's BUNK. My wagon has 160k AND still going strong. Does not burn any oil. But it does need maintenance.
The real question, you say its boiling over. The radiator overflow goes into a hose into the coolant overflow tank. At rest, the water in the bottle should be only at the low mark. Are you saying the water is filling up the overflow bottle and coming out of the top of the bottle when its hot? Did you change the radiator cap? Where exactly is the water leaking from if its hitting the ground?
BOB
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The coolant boiling out the overflow should have been a clue that the cooling system was not working. Its not the engines fault, but problem a lack of maintenance to the cooling system as the cause.
wrote:

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check the head gasket.
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