torque wrench range

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What is a good range to get in a torque wrench? Is 25-250 in-lbs likely to cover all needs on light trucks and cars?
TIA, -D

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[This followup was posted to alt.autos.ford and a copy was sent to the cited author.]
says...

You really need two wrenches. One small one for inch-pounds, and one large one for ft-lbs.
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On Wed, 31 Dec 2003 11:04:54 -0600, in alt.trucks.ford, Andrew Rossmann wrote:

Ok. I'll keep the one I got for Christmas, then, and later think about getting a bigger one to complement it. (FWIW 250 in-lbs is equivalent to about 20 ft-lbs, just gotta do the math to convert :-))
-D
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On Wed, 31 Dec 2003 18:10:03 +0000, Derrick 'dman' Hudson rearranged some electrons to form:

divide by 12

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You should have something that can go up to 150 ft-lbs also. Wheel lugs might have about 100 ft-lbs as an example.
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The lug nuts on Superduties must be torqued to 160 ft lbs....
"Mellowed" wrote i

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140 ft-lbs on my 96 F-250 Super Duty PSD.

lugs
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1999 up 160 ft lbs.... Completely different lugs and wheels.

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I was under the impression that Ford went to the metric style on the SD in 1998.

Wheel
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Derrick 'dman' Hudson wrote:

i got a $12.00 one from sears back in 1969... it was 0-150 ft. lbs... have used it ever since and many times just as a breaker bar..... never really needed anything larger(ft. lbs.)
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And now it's useless as anything *but* a breaker bar, unless you have it recalibrated.
On Wed, 31 Dec 2003 12:50:00 -0700, jim wrote:

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One torque wrench is not enough.
You need at least two: 1.one 150 lbs-ft torque wrench for passanger cars, for trucks you will need probably 250 lbs-ft. (Harbor Freight has 150 on sale for 10$ very often - purchased probably a dozen for relatives etc). 2. one smaller such as 0-200 lbs-inch for smaller jobs (got one at toolsource for 20$).
Buy them in blow molded cases to protect them.
You should buy them in this order if you cannot afford to buy them in one shot. I am considering getting third one up to 960 lbs-inch (which is 80 lbs-ft) at Advance Auto Parts for 20$, because it is shorter and it will be easier to work with it in tight spots.
To remove rusted bolts or nuts use breaker bar. I got both at Harbor Freight for 18$ for both. I can remove axle nut with 1/2 breaker bar easily (I broke torque wrench even without cheater bar prior to getting breaker bar). Don't listen that you can use torque wrench as breaker bar.
Remember, everything has its purpose, either breaker bar or torque wrench.
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Gracjan Nawrot wrote:

i guess i am lucky, been using the torque wrench for a breaker bar for over 35 yrs. and never had broken it yet.... had it where the wrench was bendt over like a C at times and its still here....
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What style of torque wrench?
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Andrew Rossmann wrote:

the kind with a dial from the top to the bottom...long skinny, 1/4 inch rod that moves when you use it,, the metal bar on the wrench will bend and the dial rod will stay put and you can read the dial( i guess its the original torque wrench.. years later i saw the click kind come out... and the prices were high and they started to come down also....
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Jim, when I read that you were using your torque wrench for a breaker bar, like others here, I cringed. But now that I think about it, it probably doesn't harm the type of wrench you are using. I have one too (a Sears model I've had for 20 years or so). I guess if you don't actually bend the bar it will always return to its original shape and thus not be harmed. I'm going to hang on to my breaker bars though! jor

was
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jor wrote:

yes, and not having any breaker bars(except a 10 in. 3/8 in. flex head bar) it works find and if i ever do break it then i go to Harbor Freight and get a new one for $10 with the dial like i have now to replace it...
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Where can you get a torque wrench calobrated? Is there anybody that has come up with a home grown system to calibrate one that works?
Jim

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snipped-for-privacy@ev1.net wrote:

why would you want to mess with calibrating a torque wrench.. if yours does not work just get another one as they are pretty cheap now.... or if you want to test yours you simply take one that you can trust and attach it to the good one via a double female 1/2 in. socket(dont know where you would get that but .. you put one in a vice and then the old one turn it and look at the scale on it and see if its 10 or 20 or so ft. lbs. and then look at the good one and see if it gives the same reading... it should.....
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bar for

wrench
replying!
the
inch
bend
its
also....
Freight
it...
For your sake, I hope you don't work on your own cars (or anyone elses, for that matter). Dave
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