Troubles with 1990 ford aerostar van

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dead starter system, does not even click anymore.

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Starlord wrote:

Dead battery
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it's got a brand new fully chargered battery in it. that is not the troble at all.
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Starlord wrote:

Seriously, that would have been very useful information. You're going to have to give up a lot more information than "dead starter system, does not even click anymore" if we're even going to have a chance at helping you out. Sorry.
Rob
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with 65mph winds blowing outside today and having tree brachs come down I've been watching them a lot more, but I know I was able to crank it before, then took the old battery got a ride to wal-mart and got a new fresh battery and now it doesn't even want to do anything, it's like it was DEAD, so I have to look at things but a high wind does not help a lot.
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it's not a truck, it's the areostar van by ford with a v6 engine. 1990.
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On Fri, 4 May 2007 17:00:49 -0700, "Starlord"

Wallmart, a bad battery)
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Starlord wrote:

Check battery voltage. It should have 12 volts minimum, with 11.9 volts just about discharged. If battery's OK, starter relay under the hood, cabling, or possibly bad ignition switch.
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wrote:

The starter is almost 18 years old. If a daily driver it has started well over 2000 times. I strongly suspect thestarter brushes are toast (from my experience with the same van) Put a booster on and jump the starter relay (solenoid). If you don't get a healthy spark and a crank, the starter is done (unless you have bad cables)
Easy test is voltmeter from the starter side of the relay to ground - what voltage in the crank position??
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As with most fords the solenoid switch is right above the battery on the engine wall, As I don;t have a gage I can't tell if there's any power going threw it and this last two days we've had winds that have been awefull, but I am not sure if it's either the solenoid or the starter itself, the fues in the dash area all looked ok.
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Small chance of a bad or out of adjustment neutral safety switch as well.
Erik
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brand new battery says 18vots on gage, at first I used to get a click, but now I get nothing at all.
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Also check the cable connections, especially the ground cable that connects to the engine block. Corrosion here could cause the issues that you are describing.
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That I'll have to check on.
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Starlord wrote:

running, either the voltmeter's highly inaccurate or you have a 24 volt system and the battery has a dead cell. If you're reading the 18 volts on a 12 volt system with the engine running, the battery's about to EXPLODE! Anyway, to test for seeing if the problem is at the fender location relay, short across the relay power posts with an insulated screwdriver. If the starter cranks, it's NOT the starter, and NOT the cabling; it's either the relay itself or the relay trigger from the IGNITION SWITCH.
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wal-mart doesn't sell 24vot batterys and this is a bit smaller in size than the one I removed and it's only a 12 vot but I have seen new ones that have not done anything before have up to a 18volt charge on them for the first start.
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Starlord wrote:

No way.
Rob
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I've owned over 70 cars and have changed a lot of batterys and the new ones very offen have a bit of a overcharge on them so that whey can last longer on the walmart shelf. I have seen a guy there testing them and each month the ones that go down to under 12 volts are tanken away and recharged in the rear of the story out of site, but there is only one such, the 2nd time they go back to the outfit that makes them. Almost none are past 3 months old. When I got mine the oldest one there was just one month old.
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Uhh.... No.. No chance.. Never in a million years.
You need to take the car to a mechanic, you've failed basic automotive physics, and you are in danger of hurting yourself.
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