warm up time, 90 tbird LX?

You should be able to drive within a few seconds of starting that car. If it won't idle, check the IAC (it sits on the throttle body and provides air at idle). It is either dirty or broken.

If you are waiting for heat from the heater, there might be a problem but if that is OK and the display just doesn't move, no big deal. There is a bolt thingie on the top of the engine that is used while filling the coolant. It is to be loosened to vent air from the system. If you haven't vented it - an air bubble can cause what you describe.

Your loose PCV (other post) should have no long term effects since it is now back where it belongs.

I hope this helps -

PoD

There is no drivability issue from it, it is more of a matter of getting heat in the car.. I get no heat until the display moves up a notch, which can take several minutes of reving it high to get it to move... even on that first notch the heat is pathetic. Mostly the problem is in the winter, I might rev high

5mins before it's even begun to put out heat... if I sit there and let it idle for me remaining 20 it might never make it to the middle..if it's below 20 out forget it, the inside of the car just isn't going to get warm in that 25min.. that's alot of gas I'm burning to get it to where I'm not shivering anymore (talking below freezing now).. Do you think the mechanical clutch vs changing for a thermal, would have a significant impact? perhaps working out an actual coolant ratio instead of my usual, "the hydrometer says colder than it's likey to get" method: would make a big difference? I know it's supposed to be 50/50 theoretically, but it rarely ever gets sub-zero or anything here, so I don't concern myself too much.. freezing isn't really an issue, bout I know antifreeze is actually worse as a coolant than water so maybe a 70/30 af/water mix would make ir warm much faster? and BTW, yes I know about the bolt to vent the air out, this was done properly, and the water pump is little over a year old, so I doubt it's worn to the point to cause a problem..

sorry for the incoherent post.. just got off work and I'm bout to snooze on the keyboard ;)

Incoherent is OK, I often am too. I have a '93 Cougar, basically same as your Bird. It makes heat at the first notch and rises quickly. It is the best heating car I've driven - A/C performance is a different issue (poor). I have heat within a few blocks of starting out, as a rule.

I don't think the fan clutch would make that big a difference - I am fighting with a new loud one on my CV right now and it heats fine. I have a feeling the thermostat is goofy. I don't think replacing it in that car is a bad job. I think it is supposed to have a 195 degree stat. If you decide to do the stat - get a good one or even a real Ford one. Cheapies stick open and give symptoms exactly like you describe. Stick with at least 50/50 on coolant for best boilover/rust/corrosion/freeze performance. I have been told that some folks have used pure undiluted coolant and found it jelled up and not flowing but I don't have proof.

Hope it helps - get some sleep. I gotta go buy tires (joy, joy)

PoD

90 times out of 100 that's a thermostat problem. The key to this is whether your engine temp gets close to the same level in the cold as it does in the summer. If it doesn't, it's almost always the t-stat. Should be a 195deg. Should have no bleeder hole in it, and I'm trying to recall if it has a rubber gasket. It may need one, depend on stat housing.

I've had 2 93's 3.8 and no problem in them kicking out warm air in just a few blocks.

And, Paul, next spring, get on here and ping me (local call, I'll walk you through it).... no excuse for poor A/c in those cars... both of mine and my kids 90 cougar would freeze ya out.

"Paul of Dayon" wrote in news:OuL7f.3325$ snipped-for-privacy@newssvr22.news.prodigy.net:

Thanks Backyard. I'll holler in the spring. I only have 2 complaints with that car, poor A/C cooling and awful heater-A/C fan noise. It's been odd since new and dealers say it's OK. Air flow isn't what I'd expect, either. I suspect it's all related. Compressor and refrigerant seem fine.

PoD