Warning: Electrical problems? Look for Scotchlok wire taps!

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Complaint: new starter,relay,ignition switch,key switch,batt cables even to the starter i hook up the battery and it still engages the starter on it's
own.i'm lost,i checked eveything HELP!!!!
Fix: .I did test the single wire from the ignition switch[kusty] only 1 wire on this set up,yes it was hot constant,i put in a new ignition switch.it tested fine at 1rst.i thought i put the old[2nd] solinoid through enough so put on #3 i know the other wires are running other things but have had them short before and weld the solinoid contacts,it's been years since i've delt with theese and you both wolk me up..it turns out the idiot who sold me this took scotch locks ewwwwwww and used the wires under the dash that he could find to wire in a stereo & amp.yes the truck did seem to be possesed ... - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Anyone who has thought Scotchloks were great and depended on them has probably been let down, sometime
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Scotchloks are easy, fast, cheap and simple (sounds like me!) but crap The vibrations of a car will loosen the IDC terminal over time and if used under the bonnet or exposed to damp or dirt it will fail sooner rather than later. The sodding things can even show volts on a test meter but not pass enough current to operate whatever is connected. Absolutely no substitute for a properly made off connection.
m
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I have been using scotchloks for over 20 years, and only had a problem/return with one of the thousands I used. and that one was a second use, because I ran out and did not get to the store to get a new box. the trick to successful use of a scotchlok connector is to use dielectric grease with it.

than
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That is most likely true... and if that dielectric grease (used to exclude air from the joint and prevent oxidation) was included with them, and users read the directions, perhaps it would be different... as it is -my warning stands.

.
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I, too, have used Scotchloks for a number of years, but not the "clip-over" type. The ones I have involve cutting the existing wire and putting each end in the holes provided, then adding in the 3rd (new device) wire in the 3rd hole and pressing the center button down. These are round ones with grease already in them, and 3 holes in which to put the wires being spliced. I started using this type probably 25 years ago on my boat- the salt air and water along the coast will eat up the regular Scotchloks in a matter of months. These are permanent, though- the only way to remove them is to cut the wires.
I must say, though, that my preferred method of splicing is shrink tubing and a soldering iron.
SC Tom
wrote

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pottsy wrote:

All those symptoms you describe I have only seen when using:
1) the wrong size 2) not using weather proof when needed 3) using non-name brand, ie: Chineese instead of Scotch brand
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nah, they're adaquate for comms and data stuff in buildings where they're not subject to any sort of mechanical stress and are in clean and air controlled conditions and not carrying any ampage (is that a word?), but they're just a short term fix in vehicles.
m
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pottsy wrote:

I have some on my Mustang that have been there for close to 8 years. Several on a boat trailer that have been there in excess of 12 years. And no, the word is "amperage".
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IDC connectors (insulation displacement contacts) were invented by Krone for use in the data + comms industry. They are designed to work on single strand cable. Scotchloks and the like are a derivative of the Krone connector and operate on the same principal. If they're used on miltistrand cable as used in vehicles, the strands move and the connection gets loose. If you're happy with 'em that's just fine. I prefer to take that bit more time and do the job properly.
(you're right about the word 'amperage' tho')
:)
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