Water pump replacement, 1991 Ranger V6

I'm curious whether anyone in the group has ever changed a water pump on a 3.0L Ranger and if it is all that difficult of a job. I just got home from
work and when I got out of the truck, I could smell coolant quite strong. I got down and looked underneath and could see something trickling down the front side of the engine and onto the oil pan, then onto the ground. It was fairly dark, so I went inside and grabbed a flashlight, checked it again and lo and behold it was antifreeze, running from I believe the seep hole on the waterpump (its too dark to really tell, it may have been coming from around the gasket, but I doubt it). With close to 240,000 kms on the engine, and not knowing whether its been replaced before (doesn't look like it), it doesn't really suprise me that the water pump is worn out. Luckily, no idiot lights came on while I was on the highway, so it looks like it may have started leaking in the last 10-12 kms on the way home. I'll have to check the coolant level after it cools down.
Really all I want to know is how hard of a job it is to change it. All the bolts to remove it looked pretty easy to get at with a socket, and there doesn't seem to be much in the way to remove besides the fan. Mind you, I could only see what the flashlight lit up and this is another reason I wanted to ask before I jumped into it. I plan on replacing it myself probably this weekend, or if it isn't that big of a job, an evening this week in my fathers garage.
Thanks in advance for advice, tips, etc. BTW, I am not interested in putting any kind of stop leak product or anything else in my coolant system, so please don't suggest it.
Sharky
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How about Ore-Ida instant taters? They work GOOOOD! And any excess that boils out is ready fer eatin'! - - - - - - - - - - - - - Pretty easy, if you've done a couple pumps. Reverse threads on that fan, BTW.. assuming it's the shaft/nut type.
Usually shroud and fan have to come out together... probably only two screws for shroud, sits in clips in the bottom rail.
Oh, Dont take any 'short-cuts' if you wonder if you can wiggle past something, you usually cant.

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LOL, Backyard, I don't think I'll try the potatoe trick either, but I suppose it could make for some tasty taters by the time I got to work. Mind you around these parts, I've seen people add some pretty silly stuff to their radiators in wild attempts to repair leaks. Eggs, pepper, the stop leak garbage they sell at the Auto Parts store, to name a few.
I've replaced one or two pumps on older vehicles, yes, but not on a Ranger before. Going by the Chiltons manual, it seems to be a pretty straightforward job (I know you guys hate these cheap-ass books, but its the only thing, besides the internet, I have to refer to). The only thing I wonder about is the specialty tools needed to remove the fan. It looks like you can probably use a normal wrench with some type of other tool holding the pulley to remove it, any idea what size wrench that is? The other thing I see in the Chiltons manual, but it fails to explain in detail, is that the water pump is fastened to the timing cover chain. It mentions that some of the bolts are used to fasten the pump and timing cover, I'm just wondering whether only the pump or both have to be removed. I'm assuming just the pump, but I'd rather know for sure before I tackle it.
I priced the pump up, looks to be fairly cheap, around $50 - $60 Canadian, so I'll probably replace both the radiator hoses while I'm at it, as well as flush the cooling system and replace the coolant.

BTW, I'm not sure what you meant by that. A bit more insight and the parts and I should be able to tackle it by this weekend hopefully. Thanks for the quick reply.
Sharky
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On Thu, 27 Oct 2005 09:28:06 GMT, "Sharky"

You can get the fan hub wrench kit from Advance, Autozone, Pep Boys and such other places for less than $15US. All are the same size. It is a right hand thread. You don't have to remove the fan from the hub before you remove the hub from the pump. You may even have enough room to slip the schroud up and back to remove the fan and hub from the pump w/o removing the radiator. It is a straight forward swap. Only the pump comes off. Make sure you clean the gasket surface well. Use antiseize on the bolt threads just in case you have to do the job again. Do not try to over tighten the bolts. They should be as uniformly tightened as possible - the alloy housing thing. You should also replace the T-stat while you are at it and a new belt won't hurt. Make sure you check the tensioner closely. If there is any question about the bearing, it should be replaced while you are there since it is much easier and gives peace of mind over the long haul.
Good luck Lugnut
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Nah... it is straightforward.
Loosen the fan before you take off the belt. As you commonweal'ers say "anti-clockwise' Wedge belt if necessary. rap nut with hammer to breakloose, if necessary.
And I still use the old formagasket2 spread VERY thin.
Tighten all bolts evenly and not overmuch.
Seriously....no one should ever try to stopleak a weepy pump! When a late model waterpump leaks, it is GONE. My aerostar pump bearing (same pump) let go without ever putting a drop on the driveway.

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I appreciate the replies and the tips fellas. I ordered the pump and both rad. hoses at lunch time, should be in by tommorrow morning. Everything should come close to $100, that's one reason I love this truck. Parts are super cheap. I just replaced all the drive belts about 8 months ago, but I probably will replace the thermostat as well. I wasn't aware that the belt tensioner on this engine was problematic, although I have read alot about the Taurus with the same engine having some problems. Either way, I will check it while I have it apart. I'm gonna give every bolt and fastener a good spray of PB Blaster and let it soak in before I tear things apart tommorrow afternoon.
I wouldn't even think twice about putting any kind of stop leak product in any part of my truck, let alone a home remedy. I look after my own vehicles and after 14 years of doing mostly my own repairs, I usually know what works and what doesn't work.
Hopefully things should go pretty easy and if I have any troubles, I know where to find you guys.
Sharky
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be very careful with the water pump bolts. only one of the over 12 water pumps I have done on V6 rangers did not snap at least one bolt.

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Bet you were afraid to whack it good with hammer like I suggested!
Thimk! ;)
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To be honest, the space was so small, I was scared of missing and breaking off one of the blades on the plastic fan. But yeah, if I could have got at it with a hammer, I would have whacked it a few times. I seriously doubt it would have come off without the monkey wrench anyhow. It took my father to hold the monkey wrench while I broke it free, all the while the pump was held in a vise. And I'm not a small guy either, I've got some strength in my arms for sure.
Sharky
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